

journal enteries + photos
january 3rd
am i nervous or excited?
up until now, i haven't felt any fear or worried too terribly about how i might handle it. but today, six days before my flight, dad mentioned the plan for driving me to the airport and, all of a sudden, this all feels overwhelmingly real. i'm starting to experience that dread where you feel ice wash over you and chill your skin from your head down to your toes. and the fear that halts your breathing and makes you tighten your lips. i haven't decided yet if i will let myself cry or if i'll remind myself what my therapist (sam) told me about holding on to what i can control and thinking about the coffee i wanna try on my first day there. i have a few more days to sleep in this bed with my pillows and the ticking from my tiny gold clock before i get to open my christmas gift from my aunt (new bedspread!) and try to cultivate some semblance of familiarity in my new room in dublin without my decorations and books and candles and mirrors. one of my best friends, cevi, just wrote to me, "it’ll all be okay. you are very capable, i have no doubts that you’ll be fine over there. just also give yourself the time to adjust as well. don’t expect yourself to be 100% comfortable right away. it will take a little". and yeah. they're right. maybe i'll be six hours ahead and three thousand eight hundred miles away but, my friends are still right here loving me as much as i love them. and i still know myself. if there's one thing i've learned being at a university and living apart from my family, it's the ability to know what i need and when i need it. how to walk myself through a complication or what would best help me feel like being a breathing body is the most beautiful thing ever and how sweet it is to feel changes in the weather and taste sugar on your tongue. i know that i hate being yelled at and that i'll always wish i could be twelve again and watch my mom ride her bike in front of me. i'll never not have my internal dialogue saying "that person just looked at you weird" or "brandi, the back of your knee itches". there's no reason to be afraid of going away for a while when..."wherever you go, there you are". i'm not going anywhere. the other day, i saw someone online mention that oldest daughters thrive in airports on their own. i don't know about that...but i'll be damned if i don't try.
january 9th
predeparture ruminations (i'm so scared rn bro)
i am very grateful to my past self for making the call to have therapy last semester. meeting with sam helped me process that change is going to come and that i should greet it with open arms. i don't have any reason to be afraid because i will be home for the rest of my life. i will get on this plane and look out the window for a bit. and then i will get off the plane in dublin and find damien (travel program assistant director) and some new friends. what i'm most looking forward to is seeing my new room. less than 12 hours until i get to do so! i want to sit down and unpack and cry. and then i will take some pictures to share with my family and enjoy the bus tour of dublin. i can't wait to walk around like emma chamberlain and make a little video of the pretty streets. i'm excited to drink something from my mug. what is going to matter most is getting comfortable with the people around me and letting myself seperate from home for a bit. i think when i do eventually go home, it's going to feel different and i'm gonna have a hard time getting comfortable with everyone again. but that's not necessarily true, because i can still message people. they are still right here. i know that i need to get better at living in the moment. i might do this by worrying about getting on the plane now and think about my apartment later.
january 10
day one! the plane overnight, new friends, rain, the bus, and guinness
shortly after my previous entry yesterday at o'hare, a 26 year old british man and an 18 year old from california sat down to have a convo with the 20 year old edinburgh study abroad student who was seated across from me. the four of us talked, and my plane nervousness evaporated entirely. sometimes all we really need is someone to talk to. after boarding and finally stowing away my carry on and holding up the line, i found my seat (an old man had accidentally sat there so i had to awkwardly ask him to move) and settled in next to a salt and pepper, lanky, middle aged irishman who couldn't get his little screen to work and who texted in gaelic. i dislike disturbing people, so i waited until he had gone to the bathroom before i got up to do so, even though i really really needed to pee. (this way, i didn't have to disrupt him and ask him to move) i watched derry girls and had the best pretzels i've ever had in my life (sour cream and chive). i slept on and off for four hours but, if you don't count that, i've been up for 38 hours and counting. but it hasn't been terribly dreary. i met damien. and then ellie. she's from conneticut and she's studying political science. we took a taxi to campus and got situated in our rooms. then we attended a "speed friending" zoom that dcu organized for study abroad students before damien met up with us and showed us around the glasnevin campus a bit. he got us coffee and showed us the grocery store, the pharmacy, the library, and told us about the bus system and how allison's flight got delayed and overlapped with her connecting flight. she didn't make it into dublin till 5 pm. ellie and i got here at 10 am. damien left to go wait around for allison to get here so me and ellie took the bus and went to henry street in dublin one. this, however, was an accident because we meant to go north to ikea but accidentally took a southbound bus for 15 minutes and got lost when ellie's phone connection stopped working. this whirlwind of bus schedules and faulty wifi made us choose to go to penney's instead. damien had recommended all the cheapest places for us to go for linens and essentials we'd need almost immediately and penney's was on his list! on henry street, we found a three store (three is one of ireland's networks like our at&t, verizon, etc) and got our sim cards. unlimited data baby! got sheets and a pillow case and then we ordered a taxi back to campus. i've instantly fallen in love with the stone buildings and colored doors along the streets. the buses and taxis and people on bikes go flying past the sidewalks, all of the steering wheels on the right side of the car, the flow of traffic absolutely mind boggling. the rain made everything even more vibrant. as it got darker when the sun was setting, the city lights reflected off the rain puddles on the ground. waiting for our taxi, a car flew past me and ellie and we could've been drenched by the resulting spray from the puddle. but we weren't. my hair was slick for the rest of the night because of all the rain. when we returned to campus, i ran into one of my roommates, david from jacksonville, florida, and he told me that there's someone living here named james and someone else named emma. the fifth roomie hasn't arrived yet so maybe i'll meet them someday. but damien said that he once had a student that never met their roommates at all because they never overlapped in interaction times in the apartment. that's easy to do here cuz each of our rooms are kinda padlocked and seperate. the kitchen isn't great, but it'll do. and the shower is...not great either. i can hear every person who walks through the courtyard. the seagulls are talkative and the wind is like one of those people who thinks they're whispering, but they're actually being pretty loud when it brushes again my window every once in a while. we met up with allison (studying computer science, from st. louis) after putting away the toilet paper and bed sheets from penney's and we went to nubar (the bar on campus) because the study abroad students from the "speed friending" zoom figured we should organize a little event. it was supposed to be at 8:30, so me and ellie and allison went at 7 to grab dinner beforehand. ellie and i both tried our first guinness. it was a landmark moment in my temporary enculturation here, but it was salty and bitter, and the froth wasn't helping. allison tried mine eventually, and she actually liked it! ridiculous. but it made me feel better to give up that drink at the end of the night with at least half of it gone instead of just the little layer i had sipped off the top. thank you, allison! we talked to a couple people (ryan: communications, ani: journalism, and julia: i forgot her major) and then me and allison decided to head back to hampstead (the apartment building the three of us live in) and finally get some sleep after the 30+ hours of wide eyed wandering and digesting.
january 11th
day two! lemonjelly, lunch with darragh and damien, a bus tour of the city, and some overarching ponderings
i'm so grateful to be the age that i am. i love knowing music and movies and seeing two friends dressed in dramatic wide legged pants with sick graphic hoodies and soft, big, dyed hair and sneakers and wishing so desperately i could tell them how cool they are as they walk down the cobblestone on mary street. it's been a day and a half and i'm yet to experience even an ounce of paranoia. i haven't so much as encountered a scenario that might make me cry. i think i'm proud of myself. decidedly, i'm just as interesting as those people on mary street. i have stories to tell and i attentively listen to people when they tell me things about themselves. today, ellie, allison, and i visited the lemonjelly cafe. i got sourdough toast with butter and orange marmalade for only €3! and a matcha for 4. the jam reminded me of addie (siue roommate). we went to wicklow house (the cea center) after breakfast. we accidentally walked past the temple bar lmao. we got to cross a pretty bridge. we met francis (cea director, isb founder) and darragh (cea director) who went through orientation with us. out the window, we could see dublin castle. it was raining, so, naturally, the view out the window felt quite european. darragh articulated that dublin's layout isn't exactly simple with blocks and chronological streets like it is in the states. dublin meanders this way and that. it's organic, he said. i love that word. organic. the sidewalks feel alive. there are people everywhere. that's to be expected in a city, but it's even more beautiful to watch children navigate the bus system and elderly ladies walk ever so slowly, arm-in-arm, down the aisle of penney's. damien and darragh took us out for lunch at gotham cafe. i had a chicken and guac flatbread sandwich that had lettuce, tomato, and basil creme fraiche on it. i brought up howth and malahide, the places our taxi driver told me and ellie about last night. darragh lit up. i definitely wanna go to howth and malahide. the castles and hiking are beautiful, apparently. next, we went to clement & pekoe, a cafe, where we got coffee and sat to talk about games we play with our friends. the latte art in my cup reminded me of jude (friend from home). and then darragh took us to get on a tour bus with all of cea's french students. we saw maternity houses and monuments with bullet holes through them. we saw samuel beckett's bridge and oscar wilde's childhood home. james joyce and bram stoker went to trinity college. the tour took us to this park that had a large hill with a giant white cross on it. the pope gave a speech to a million people there. it was interesting to hear darragh and damien talk about the french students when we were at lunch. apparently they're very timid about socializing with non french students. sometimes it comes off as snobbish and rude. i overheard darragh whisper to our tour guide and tell him to make sure the french take their earbuds out and stop talking to people from home so they'll actually pay attention to the tour. i felt myself developing this weird sense of superiority over them. i had to shut that down pretty fast. i keep hearing that the irish love american culture and are intruiged by our politics and how other international students like americans because they can practice their english on us and still bond over being foreign. and that's great...but i can't let that define how i view myself here. we're all just people, breathing and wanting and feeling, at the end of the day. the french students were fun and they were laughing and bonding with each other. one girl told allison how to say "wind" in french. "vent" (pronounced like vaw). we drove past the president's residence. they leave a light on in the left-most window to let irish immigrants who have left know that they're always welcome home. is that not the single most wonderful thing you’ve ever heard? openness. the tour ended after that. they have quite a few roundabouts in the city! we popped into a convenience store to use the toilets. i got some handsoap. we walked about 20 minutes to penney's again, so allison could get sheets and things. then we got the bus back to campus while the sun disappeared. allison and i went to londis (the campus grocery store) and the pharmacy. i'm finally all stocked on essentials! but i still need a plate and paper towels and food. we're going grocery shopping tomorrow. francis told us that the police force here, called "an garda siochana" (guardians of the peace), are entirely unarmed. and once they schedule a visa appointment for me, i'm free to travel outside of the country. everyone seems to have places they wanna travel to. maybe i should do some research and book some flights. i know i wanna see ko'u (friend from home who is an exchange student in germany rn) and austria. probably gonna see iceland. maybe switzerland. maybe lisbon. maybe the south of france. (bordeaux? marseille?) maybe croatia? i think allison and ellie are probably down for my wine night idea. shout out to the house pinot grigio at nubar! on the bus tour, the guide told us that the north used to be where the rich people settled until this one rich guy moved south and the other rich people followed him so now, the north is where most people move to because it's cheaper and the south continues to prosper and develop wealthily. dcu is in the north. i think it's beautiful around here and there are lots of young people! but we do always seem to be taking the bus south. i hope i get the hang of the bus system soon so i can use it without feeling like i'm traipsing after ellie. i wanna see more beautiful things before school starts on monday. classes are gonna get time consuming before too long. i found original mcvitie's jaffa cakes! they're smackin! it's tough not to down the whole box right this moment! damien and francis have both emphasized that we should continue our natural routines and keep ourselves healthy so we feel good and can enjoy our personal and professional growth while we're here. i hope i will still recognize myself when this beautiful piece of my life comes to an end. i'm going to be gentle with myself. patient. forgiving when i'm hungry. i'm going to walk. and when i do, i'll look ahead instead of staring at my toes. and i'm going to read. i want, so desperately, to read everything i can while i'm here. my new cotton bedsheets make me sweat profusely. i forgot to put the cap back on my toothpaste after i used it this morning. the tram tracks smell metallic. especially right after the tram has just driven past. allison is going to come see the backseat lovers with me at vicar street. and i'm going to belfast to see lovejoy with her. i think i'm going to surf in the atlantic ocean in a few months. it's going to be soooo cold. hopefully i can teach myself how to put in a tampon by then. i think i want to get myself some candles and a lighter so maybe my damp and dewy dorm room will feel alive. i'm going to drink less coffee. i'm gonna leave here in may determined to come back someday.
january 13th
the tram cafe, groceries, rosie's, grafton street, bangers, and people
finally went to the café i had planned on seeing my first day here! it's on campus and it's about a seven minute walk through the college park. the walk is beautiful, straight through the trees. most people don't seem to keep their dogs on leashes, the dogs just know to follow. they run around the park through the grass with intent. the café was just as bewitching as i had imagined. the interior is dimly lit, but not dark, the walls covered in frames, plants, and floor to ceiling antiques. it's quite charming. the latte i got is the best i've had so far. we went to supervalu, the grocery store, and we walked instead of taking the bus. boy oh boy was it windy! ellie joked, "whoever named chicago the 'windy city' clearly hasn't been to dublin". it was about a 20 minute walk and it was really nice to see all of the neighborhoods and cars closer up. a lot of the cars are eco efficient around here. since i don't really have room in my fridge in my apartment, i couldn't get too many cold things. i settled for what i know: dried apricots, jaffa cakes, red grapes, apple juice, honey, raspberry jam, veggie soup, camomile tea, and some strawberry oatmeal. we got the bus back and called it a day. i called home for the first time and watched tinker bell secret of the wings. this morning, i woke up finally feeling well rested and adjusted to the new time zone. ellie and i had a brief convo at the bus stop with an old man walking his dog. he shivered a bit from the cold and then he told us that he had called his granddaughter that morning. she lives in canada and said the weather wasn't too bad and then told him it was 5 degrees. he laughed about it. he talked so fast and had such a thick accent that ellie and i could barely understand him! we went down to dublin 2 to a cafe called rosie's. it was right across the street from an anglican church built of stone with a large arched door. it was a gorgeous way to start the day off. i had vegan pancakes and tried some european hot cocoa. (delicious!) we walked past the christ church cathedral, another stunning, castle-like structure, smack dab in the middle of the city. we went back to campus to catch a tour with this maths postgrad student, emma. she's from ireland, so it was really nice to hear her talk and casually spit out phrases like "wee bit" and "craic". after the tour, ellie split, and allison and i went back into the city to grab dinner near grafton street. i got some new killer jeans from h&m that actually fit both my body and my style! i'm really excited to explore stylistic presentation here. i've seen a lot of recurring scarves, heeled boots, and puffer jackets, but the fashion is so diverse considering the range from business casual to street style to older gentlemen to school uniform to tourist longcoats and on and on and on. i saw someone today with the most attractively placed facial piercings. people have sweaters and big pocketed pants and i'm really looking forward to delving into my own relationship with silhouette and statement. (hot girls standing at every bus stop, i swear!) the irish like to listen to early 2010's american pop music for some reason lol. strangely disorienting to be walking through my early adulthood while simultaneously being catapulted backwards into childhood. allison and i went to the metro cafe, the walls featuring framed famous paintings redesigned to look like the subjects were enjoying a meal. we tried bangers and mash!! the sausages were black pepper, so slightly too spicy for our taste, but they pair so well with mashed potatoes and gravy! that'll be something fun to try again. maybe with apple or feta sausages! they were gonna charge 3 euro for tap water, so we decided to pop into kaph to grab a warm matcha instead. on the bus ride back, this younger student sitting next to us was on speaker phone with her friends. "i'm not jokin yuh, oh my god geerls, i'm on the 9, and i think uh need to get off. what shoold i do?" her and her friends sounded exactly like the dynamic of the characters in derry girls. a balding man got off the bus holding nothing but an empty takeout coffee cup and a tray of raw meat. one lady desperately needed to get to tesco to pick up donuts on the way to her friend's place. i'm finding the streets almost recognizable now! i'm confident in using the bus (and found a way to get 50% off bus fares!) hoping to get my class schedule put together soon. there have been some complications, so hopefully i get it all figured out. in the meantime, i think i'm going to read a book.
january 14th
neighborhoods, vastness, travel, shower thoughts, and my first negative moment
allison and i walked eight miles today checking out the yarn store, tesco, kennedy's cafe (had a ham and wicklow brie sandwhich! was so good you guys like soooo good), and the campus my literature classes will be on. the pedestrian entrance to the campus was through this tiny wooden door exactly like the one illustrated on every copy of the secret garden. there was a black cat strolling around nearby too. it was thrilling! walking through the neighborhoods in dublin, it's not rare to run into older gentlemen walking their tiny, curly white dogs. the men wear scarves and tweed hats, and their lips are so thin, you really only see their teeth when they smile. my sister would love the looks of the streets. i keep taking videos so that i may send them to her eventually. rows upon rows of brick buildings, wall-to-wall, with plants in the windowsills and ferns by the post boxes. the streets turn into wind tunnels that tussle your hair into a big mess and numb your ear lobes until you can no longer feel the weight of your earrings tugging down on them. today i did a lot of thinking about how big the world is. i cannot imagine never venturing outside of the area i grew up in. god, there's just so much more. it's not possible to know the moutains in montana without walking within them yourself. boulders peeking out the middle of a racing river through tennessee or the vastness of pines and cows in nebraska...they aren't the same in photos. when i was little, we would go on road trips and mom would tell us over and over again to take our headphones off and look out the window. i thought she was utterly ridiculous for suggesting such a thing. they're just rocks, mom. it's just a lake. and as a kid, i truly believed that. but now i know that i took all of those things for granted. there are some people who will never ever know what it's like to drive across the seven mile bridge down to key west or take the ferry to mackinac island. i can't fathom not knowing what's outside. grandma told me not to fall in love with this place because she doesn't want me to move so far away for forever. but that's a difficult thing to do, grandma. the world is so divine. i was giggling to myself in the shower a bit ago thinking about coloring books and how fun it would be to color a piece of the picture, and then pass it to my friend and have them color some, and then they'd pass it to another friend, and around and around in a circle while we all eat pretzels and chocolate covered acai blueberries and talk about our fathers' favorite ice cream flavors. i thought about soap bars shaped like hearts while i collected a little pool of water in my hands. and i also thought about how desperately i hope to meet a boy with fluffy, warm hair and a desire to tell me about the stories behind the stains on his sneakers. a boy whose eyes light up when we talk about dostoyevsky and plath and yeats. there's something about holding conversations with people who care to absorb your interests that keeps your heart safe and healthy. i want to meet more people like that: people who ask about you. one of my favorite things is the side profile of a person you love. it's almost like encountering a detailed painting and memorizing every piece of the finality of it or like hearing a line of dialogue from a film you watched repeatedly as a child in which the delivery and tone of the line is etched into the synapses of your mind and pull you back into the skin of your younger self. i don't have familiarity here in dublin, but i can easily recall the side profiles of everyone from home. i think of you all often and with fondness. i'm used to the time zone, used to the odds and ends of my place, and used to the means of public transport, but for some reason, it all finally came crashing over me tonight when allison and i were at dinner at eddie rocket's. the place looks a lot like steak n shake is the thing. but they didn't put ice in my cola and the chicken was hard and dry. we had been on the hunt for a restaurant for an hour, intending to get pasta and wine, but ending up with fried chicken and coke. it was familiar but just slightly liminal and off-putting enough to send me into a cognitive decline. the thing is, this feeling is new. and i don't quite know how to soothe it yet. i don't exactly think it's a desperation to go home, but it's a tightening around my skull and a flushed redness in my face, moderately suffocating, and reminiscent of a head cold. the newness of the city has started to wear off, leaving me with bouts of discomfort and sporadic desires to withdraw from my surroundings. whatever the causation, the feeling is strong. the people around me are talking slightly too loud, finding food takes five times the amount of time it takes to eat it, the buses get too crowded at night and it's nearly impossible to see out the window to reassure myself that i'm getting off at the correct spot. as i often feel in new living environments, i'm unnecessarily nervous about taking up space in the kitchen that already belongs to my other roommates. i have no idea how david and emma and james function, but i refuse to impede. i've situated myself in my room and bolted the door. my sink here leaks exactly like the one in my apartment at siue did, except that one could be adjusted jusssttt right that it would stop. this one drips ceaselessly. i think we walked so much today that it was just too much for my body to handle. i'm feeling overwhelmed and hoping that writing might make the feeling subside. it's only vaguely helping. i feel like i've been doing familiar things like listening to my music and watching the sturniolo triplets every night to keep in touch with myself, but the squeezing in my head is warning me that i need to slow the fuck down. i have to remember that my classes will work themselves out and that i have so many people who love and care for me that i can message anytime. nothing horrible is going to happen to me. my physical body is safe and my mind is simply getting ahead of itself. i want to know lana del rey's lyrics to the same level that i know taylor swift's. maybe i can make that a hobby of mine. the tension dissipated just now after i heard from two of my favorite people on the entire planet (ren and alli!) and i let myself laugh about the bo burnham phoebe bridgers lax photos (as if every celebrity pairing is all of a sudden romantically involved because they happen to be spotted within the same vicinity as one another. absurd!) nobody is going to read these little entries i'm making. but they're for me, at the end of the day, so i guess it doesn't really matter that i'm writing too much or too little. i need this. and i'll also always need my friends. oh how i love them. i wish i could fuse with them so we could all see everything together. and i hope people will write to me. i'm far past believing i'm so important that everyone must go out of their way to show me that they love me. but i think it's okay to be selfish sometimes. i think i'd like to be on somebody's high priority list every once in a while. maybe i'd feel a little bit less lonely.
january 18th
slowness, going to the city alone, dublin castle, the temple bar
i've spent a couple days with myself in my room. after moving around nonstop last week, i needed slowness back. i would wake when my body wanted and i'd open my blinds to let the sunlight flood my walls. i've done a lot of sitting by my window, listening to the birds, eating dried apricots, and alternating between my warm sweaters and boxer shorts. i've fallen asleep to the sound of the rain, listened to some of my frinds' favorite songs, worked on getting my classes set up, and the whole time...i felt a bit like i was wasting so much time that i should be spending exploring ireland. it's special that i get to be here and i don't want to waste a moment. but i think the realest way to get to know ireland is to know what it is to be a person breathing the air blown in from the irish sea. i've walked the streets and tried the food and changed my internal rhythm to align with the angle that the irish face the moon every day. just being here is more than enough. there's no space in the fridge in my apartment, so i'm keeping my raspberry jam cool by placing it along my windowsill so that it's touching the chill that the glass holds by the concrete wall. i got some bagels, so i'm eating an untoasted bagel with window-chilled raspberry jam right now. it's energy efficient! i've been thinking about my 20th birthday. it'll be here in a little over a month. i think i'm gonna get myself a little cake! yesterday, i felt recouperated enough to go into the city again. so i went by myself to an asian street food place called "oh! my street food" to get a brown sugar milk tea and some veggie dumplings. it was so cold out! and they had the windows open on the bus for some reason. it was nice to get home and warm up afterwards, but i successfully went into the city alone! going to the other campus for my classes will be a breeze. something i've been meaning to mention is the sound of the crosswalks. they tick while you wait for them to turn green. and when they turn, it sounds like a lazer shooting sound from an 80s movie. pew! yesterday, i went to londis and found some candies that remind me of nana. they're called aero peppermint bubbles and they taste like the andes mints she keeps on her counter and have the same burn in your teeth when you drink water right after you eat them. tonight, ellie and allison and i went to the dublin castle and it was absolutely beautiful. allison pointed out the detail in the paintings of silk dresses and the carved figures in a wooden table. the painted ceiling was sistinian (coming from someone who has never been to the sistine chapel) and the pictures speak for themselves but i loved imagining what it might be like to wear an elegant gown and eat grapes and mingle with eligible bachelors. afterwards, allison bought us a churro from a churro shop. the shop was playing bon iver. my friend delainey would love the color scheme in there. we were going to try italian pizza, but we decided to go to temple bar instead. expensive decision, but a necessary one nonetheless. i had a glass of chardonnay and their irish christmas classic sandwhich, which had chicken, ham, and cranberry sauce on sourdough. every sandwhich i've had has been on sourdough so far. the wine was so good and made me a bit giggly and made the walk back to the bus so much brighter. they still have their christmas lights up, so the ambiance is warm and the guy with the guitar played take me home, country roads, which was funny to hear as someone whose yeehaw american homecoming dj played that song like three times. boygenius released three new songs at the height of my giggle-wine state which hurled me into a frenzy of madness and urgency. i listened to the songs on the bus later and boy oh boy. polyamory and leaky faucets. they've really struck a chord. tonight was wonderful. one of my favorites so far. ellie told us about her family's reaction when she came home with a nose piercing. allison got a hard cider that tasted so good! she told us about the differences between knitting and crocheting and now i'm once again warming up in my room, listening to music and getting ready to watch a movie before bed.
january 20th
classes, the bus, full irish breakfast, surprises, my dad, and my mom
allison and i walked over to the tram cafe in the hopes that their matcha might be back in stock. we were informed, much to our dismay, that they've decided to take their matcha lattes off the menu. we enjoyed other drinks and talked about bands and movies and our struggle to communicate with faculty and get enrolled in the proper modules. the module drama has been utterly ridiculous. i decided to spare you all the boring details, but a good way to sum all of it up would be the fact that i was not correctly enrolled in my four classes until two hours before the final add/drop deadline. and dr. anderson (siue english department) is still communicating with dr. rocha (siue women's studies department) about equivalencies for me. it's not even completely come to fruition, but i have my classes under my student id number, so hopefully nothing goes wrong when i shamefully show up to my lectures next week and have to explain myself for not making an appearance during week one. we grabbed dinner at nubar where i FINALLY had some pasta! penne, tomato, basil, and chicken! we went back to my place and watched glass onion and i spent the rest of the night exploring my new classes online and trying to catch up on what i might have missed. looks like i'll be doing a research paper this semester. but i might do it on orla gartland...so i can't complain. this morning, on the bus, the sun was out, the southern mountains were a visible blue in the skyline, and the trees were vibrantly green. they flew past the window and reflected off the hair of the blonde girl with the septum in front of me. at the point where o'connell street lower crosses the o'connell bridge and turns into d'olier street, is the grandest display of the organic nature of the city. all of the buildings are only about six stories tall, but that is plenty of height to make the face of the museum stand strikingly at the front of the row of buildings that slice through the road. the buildings make all the people seem so small. we tried a place called elephant and castle where i got a full irish breakfast! the clonakilty pudding sausages were really good! and i had the pulpiest orange juice i've ever tasted. the beans were submerged in tomato soup. we stopped by kaph to get our matcha fix and then explored the street market nearby. i dragged allison into a used book store where they had a whole wall of james joyce and samuel beckett. we walked past a jewelry stand that had a three layer ring of gold with a deep red and a speckeled white stone. we went into a used record shop, where i found joni mitchell's blue on cd. and on our way out of the market, i saw the perfect gold naval piece with a dark red gem. i didn't buy any of these things, though it would've only been 35 euros in the end. i thought about the naval jewelry the whole time we stood at the bus stop, dying to run back and buy it. and i thought about it on the bus ride home. i think it spoke to me because it felt like...if i were naval jewelry...that's what i would look like. the same way that i am an orange tree, or maybe a plum tree, a teabag, a pen made of recycled water bottles, a dragonfly, a skein of navy blue yarn, dried cranberries, and wade by clairo. on this bus ride, i thought about how many people have been messaging me and casually mentioning that they're actually reading what i've been writing. having people holding me up is what makes this scary, transatlantic venture seem painless. thank you. all of you. i hope that i can find ways to show you all how much i appreciate and want to celebrate each of you too. along these lines, when i returned to campus, i had received an email that i had a package at the front desk. it was a large tote from thunders bakery full of breads, scone, sweets, and a jar of orange marmalade. turns out, aunt kim had sent me a gift in honor of the start of term. thank you thank you thank you! i won't have to buy bread at the grocery store tomorrow! i'm going after i apply for my student visa in the morning. i often think about how great it is that my dad will stand to the side and watch me unlock a door, and then he'll hold it open for me while i walk through it. when i was younger, i thought it was heartless for him to keep telling me to "figure it out" whenever i needed help with linear equations or when he would tell me to go find the glue or the plyers in the garage when i needed to fix up a torn pair of polly pocket pants or tighten the screw in my glasses instead of doing it for me. he made me do my own fafsa, he had me fill out my own w-4's, i fill up the air in my tires and now it's like...i can do things on my own (everything except use the printer in his room because what do you mean it's "wireless" and i'm "not connected to the same network" when i literally am) and he'll unfailingly be there to keep me balanced from the sidelines. he's always there in the most uncomfortable moments of change in my life. he drove behind me to my first day at my first job to make sure i found the right building. he drove behind me with all my dorm decorations all the way to edwardsville on freshman move-in day when i moved out of my house for the first time. he drove me to the airport and told me "enjoy your adventure". he's always there when it counts. and he's exactly who i've needed to make me as patient and impermeable as i am. it's a gift to be gentle when things go wrong. i think he gave me the voice in my head that doesn't bother fermenting nervousness in my veins. he nurtured the one that skips straight to thinking through what's physically going to happen to me and how i'll meet it when it does. i didn't have to worry about what would happen when i landed here in dublin because, worst case scenario, i could've booked a flight home and spent the semester in the little brick house he built and given myself some time to recuperate before trying again. he taught me that it's okay to take my time. my mom gave me the voice in my heart that holds onto things so fervently and affectionally. she's the one who encouraged me to watch high school musical over and over and over again because i was so enthralled by gabriela montez and wanted nothing more than to be as kind and as adored as she was. mom never missed a morning of being at the end of the driveway to wave to elementary aged me as the bus drove away. she had watermelon balls in the fridge all summer long and american idol nights in the living room before bed. she provided. she gave me the necessities that cultivated the humanity in my chest. she taught me to look at another person and offer them some of my animal crackers. i open the curtains and let the sun in because of her. i don't hate my roommates for having their friends come over at 4 am, because the loud sound of them laughing and singing is actually a pleasant one and the person that mom raised me to be would let it be a beautiful thing. i have her adoration for childhood and her desperation to know people deeply. she gave me my open arms. it's a gift to be present when things go wrong. i realized, a few days ago, that she's the only person that i will ever know who will care for me the way that she does. my mom is someone who is mine entirely and she'll forever be mine until we're both gone.
january 27th
things i've thought about, first week of classes, exploring, wine, a scavenger hunt
i might argue that the best feeling is fullness. when i root myself in one spot and take a look around at all the places surrounding me that are occupied by people and passions of mine, that's when i really know warmth. like a tummy stuffed with banana honey porridge, there's no space unfulfilled and left wanting. there are still people in my life from a camp i attended for two weeks two summers ago. there are people i met during my first week of university that message me spontaneously to ask how i am. there are friends of my friends, younger cousins celebrating birthdays, coworkers, family photos from the dunes, classmates from high school getting new part-time jobs and haircuts, people i used to go to rallies with, and strangers who inspire me. and there's always more music. more to pre-save. even more to rediscover. and even more than that, to discover for the first time. there are stories. unwritten ones. currently being written ones. and ones that will never be wrote. there are ladybugs and pretzels sticks and glass and paddle boats. i'm pursuing the observation of it all. you'd think that after a while of finding yourself alone in your own head, you might feel ill with it. i don't know, i think i treasure having hours with myself to look at the wall, to pick at my cuticles, to line up all my earrings in a row, and to hear whatever i happen to be saying to myself to drown out the quiet. a good way to pass the time during these empty days in the calander is to consume. i know someday a friend is going to mention a show that they love. how wonderful would it be if i had spent today getting to know that show so that i can talk with them about it later? it's not a waste of time to idly sit by and let someone else's art entertain me for a while. though people often say tv rots your brain, i think it enhances you. you get to see the subject matter from the perspective that someone else sees it. i've also never understood when people metion knowing something like the back of their hand. i have no idea what my hands look like. they're usually holding something else for me to be marveling at. usually typing or crocheting or lifting my coffee to my mouth. my eyes are on the keyboard, the yarn, the mug. i wonder if i'll notice my hands change as i get older? or if it'll be so gradual that i'll miss the way they grow. when i have trouble falling asleep, it helps to imagine stating my feelings out loud. it usually doesn't make the feeling subside, it just makes it less...consuming. i'll have other thoughts like...wow i really don't like ketchup all that much. or i'll think about the night in first grade that i sat at the dining room table for hours trying to learn how to draw a star and made a scribbly mess all over a sheet of printer paper...but i suceeded and got to show my friend bella at school the next day. something that struck me today, is how much packing makes me feel in touch with girlhood. it's a sister activity. one i used to do with emily where we'd make lists on white boards and show eachother our piles of "playing in the sand" clothes versus "day" clothes versus "nice" outfits and we'd have seperate lists for the morning to grab right before we'd get in the car with puffy eyes and our three ring binders full of dad's country music bingo cards and coloring pages. next weekend, i'm going to make a list again. for things to put in one tiny bag to take with me to vienna. vienna. i'm going to vienna. at nineteen. i'm taking a few days to feel small and drink coffee and listen to a string orchestra. but this time, i'm not traveling with emily. i'm going with allison, who i've only just met, but who shares with me the most intimate of experiences. we're doing something so isolating, selfish, introspective, and we're doing it together. the girl in me who was raised clinging to sisterhood is overjoyed that i get to make a list of things to pack and travel again. the ache i feel for my friends is immense. talking to them is refreshing, and i can't wait to hear what their world was like when i see them again after all these months that i miss. i woke up to a sunrise, the first i've seen in years, before heading to my student visa appointment at immigration services. afterwards, allison and i went to kc peaches where i got porridge and a latte. something that has absolutely been blowing my mind is the amount of early 2010s music that they play here. i've attached a playlist that i'll continue to update all semester but...the ambiance is so strangely disorienting sonetimes. i was so shocked that i was actually in tears when they started playing firework and wrecking ball in kc peaches. allison can vouch. my jaw was on the floor. we walked around the city centre looking for matcha powder and admiring art shops and architecture. i went back for the naval jewelry lol. we went to the asia market where we found matcha and wine and noodles. with my timetable finalized, my classes started on monday and they're wonderful! i have one class on the st. patrick's campus. it's children's and ya literature which has been really interesting so far! i'm also taking sexualities, languages, and societies which is about queer theory in art and literature, anglo-irish literature which hopefully will eventually be more about literature and less about geography because that's all the professor has wanted to talk about so far lol, and women, feminism, and the creative and cultural industries which is about workplace expectations for women specifically in music, art, freelance, etc. we went to ikea on wednesday where i found a corkscrew and some little holdiay cookies with hearts on them! i got raspberry and chocolate ones. yesterday, before my class at st. patrick's, i decided to pop in insomnia, which is their big coffee chain here, kind of like starbucks. i had a sticky toffee muffin and a vanilla matcha latte that burnt my tongue. allison introduced me to her friend jenna from one of her computer science classes and jenna brought her friend regina and the four of us went to a thrift store, the churro shop, and grafton street where we found this beautiful bookstore with a cafe inside. i got some mint chip gelato from a gelato stop on grafton and then we split up and allison and i went to dinner near the north docks at this place called thai spice. i had some amazing steamed rice and hot cocoa. today, we grabbed brunch at the pepper pot and got some yarn from this is knit (for the handwarmers that allison is gonna crochet for me) which are both located inside the powerscourt townhouse centre. it’s beautiful in there and i definetely wanna go back. then we headed to the cea/isb scavenger hunt! we were split into teams to wander the city and use clues to figure out which bar to meet francis, damien, and darragh at. i was with alexa from conneticut and lea from france. we had to go through trinity college at one point which was crazzyyy because i felt like i was walking in the footsteps of so many people with widening minds, hopes, and ambitions. the bar ended up being called idlewild, and we each got a free pint for figuring it out. i had some orchard thieves and then allison and i sat and talked to the other american students staying in the city. we talked to alexa and danielle for about an hour before we all went our seperate ways. i got to know more about allison's family and i've met other american students here that i'll hopefully get to travel with and maybe go out for drinks with as well! i adore this city and the way it feels to be on the streets in a coat and get blisters on my toes from walking for miles. i feel interesting here. i feel unrestricted here. and i feel as though i'm going to struggle quite a lot when i go home and don't have this whole unexplored world at my doorstep. i'm missing home, but not enough to be miserable here. i'm actually dreading moving back and not being able to find warm, frothy lattes at every turn. i'm dreading buying gas. i'm dreading having nowhere to go for a glass of wine and a sourdough sandwhich. though i do thouroughly and wholeheartedly miss string cheese. and my sisters.
january 28th
kennedy's, tesco, dying
it was misting this morning and the fog on my lenses almost made me miss the 11 as it swung around the corner to the bus stop. the ride to phibsbourough was slow. the crowd got fuller as people piled on. seats fill quickly, people stood, ladies laughed, couples bickered, and two guys struggled to dump the coins out of their wallets to pay for their fare. we got off at circular and walked to kennedy's where i tried their homemade caramel syrup in their latte and got a breakfast bap with sausage. allison and i both agree that it's a warm place, quite possibly our favorite in dublin. she complimented my earrings. i'm wearing the long beaded ones ren got me last june. the cafe played good music this time. dont go breaking my heart, sweet disposition, and i'm yours (which reminded me of mom). we walked to tesco. i found lemon lime jaffa cakes, dried cranberries, oranges, cherries, two wines, and two sparkling ciders. the lady working the self check-out pressed the "looks over 25" button instead of carding me. compliment or insult, i don't know. today, i talked to ace about love. i talked to aunt stephanie, my mom, jude, kylie, and now i'm listening to the seagulls as they talk to me. i'm leaning on my windowsill with my mug of peach and passion fruit sparkling spring water and donna tartt's secret history. i haven't seen the sun today. only clouds. the bottoms of my jeans are wet. even though i wear platform shoes, my pants are always too long for my short legs and sometimes they happen to soak up the rain on the pavement. allison and i had cardbury chocolates and wine and we laid in her bed to watch spirited away. i'm gonna miss nights like these the most when i'm older and have more than the barely-getting-by single suitcase of belongings i own now. taylor swift made a very good point when she said "i just realized everything i have is someday gonna be gone." imagine having a grandfather clock! a couch! a milk frother! i'll know that life eventually, but for now, i have wine and animated films. i'm also very scared to die. there will come a time when i won't get to wake up and touch the blinds and wrap my arms around my own skin or hear people laugh. a person goes to funerals every couple years until finally attending their own. there's more for everyone else after. they're going to enjoy a meal in honor of you. they'll all sit around a table and talk and you'll never know what they eat or what they mention. i feel infinite enough to fool myself into believe i'll always be here to see it all. but there will be an end to me. and to everyone i love and know. mortality is scary. i'm vowing to spend every hour that i get touching, listening, and pouring everything into myself until it all stops.
february 2nd-5th
vienna, austria
february 2nd as the plane was taking off, outside the left window was the sunset. pink purple orange. outside the right window, it was dark. static splotches of city lights. i'm anticipating the mindset that billy joel made vienna out to be. it's a place i'm going physically, but in my head, it's an invitation to let myself love and absorb every inch of the buildings and every slight frequency i hear. the person behind me fell asleep and spent the whole plane ride caressing my legs with his feet. uncomfortable! but i listened to music and played on my phone. florence welch made a really good point in girls against god when she sang about crying into cereal at midnight. it's the same feeling as lipstick on the side of a warm mug. the reallness of having a beating heart and chewing the skin off your lip. donna tartt talks about the importance of speed and density in her novels. when you write, you can't be boring and you can't be empty. real life reflects this too. everything is naturally dense and you must look for it. cereal and lipstick fill the space. i played subway surfers and noticed that it's easier to play when you look ahead, out, in front of your character. look at where you're going, not where you are. my dad gave me this advice when i was first learning how to drive. it's applicable to a lot, actually. my dad's kind of a genius. we landed at 9:30pm. and we couldn't find dinner. the only open place in the airport was a little bakery. i had a raspberry danish. at least i think that's what i had...i couldn't read the label and the lady behind the register didn't bother to translate for us. we took a train to the city and then got a taxi to our airbnb. in austria, they drive on the same side of the road as we do in the states, so it felt different than dublin, but still city-like enough that it wasn't disorienting. we got to the apartment and spent 15 minutes trying to use the instructions our host provided to get into house 4 before we messaged him at 11pm and he responded (thank god) to help us realize we read it wrong and we're actually supposed to be in house 5. our place was really nice! shower, little kitchen, bed, pull-out couch, and we found some complementary green tea in the cabinet! we had some tea and talked until 1 am to get comfortable in the new space. i'm so grateful to have allison and to be able to experience all these unfamiliar places with someone else who's just as out of place as i am. we're sticking together and already planning which ice cream shops in st. louis we'll meet up at in the fall. february 3rd it's very overwhelming to be somewhere that doesn't speak your first language. allison and i can't read any of the signs or menus. i noticed today just how powerful body language is. we walked around the city, busying ourselves with wide eyed glances at the rows and rows of rooftops with sunlight windows and buildings with columns of carved marble statues on horseback weilding bows and arrows. just enough of the city is painted gold, cream stone, brick red, copper green/blue, and the streets are wet from the rain, slippery, just like dublin. we went to dreschler wienzeile for breakfast. i got scrambeled eggs with caramelized onion on toast and a latte machiatto. at the crosswalks, they don't have a sound that tells you when to cross when the light changes, there's just a continual ticking. like the seconds on a clock. it ticks and ticks and it feels like, the longer you stand there, the more you notice how time is slipping away. it's passing inevitably. its hauntingly incessant and eerily pushed to the forefront of your attention. the ticking is off-putting, and, mixing that with the sirens of emergency vehicles sounding in the distance, it took me a couple minutes to adjust to the way vienna naturally sounds. i told allison how weird it feels, considering billy joel said this is the place to slow down, take the phone off the hook, and lose a day or two. he clearly hasn't used these crosswalks recently. they're taunting you..."make haste! no moment can afford to be spared!" regardless of this weird pressure to do do do things while i'm here, we spent the entire day at belvedere palace seeing gustav klimt's the kiss, monet, van gogh, matisse, painted ceilings, and the hibernating february gardens. i've always loved the golden swirls and splotches in klimt's work. i'd like to tell you that seeing the paintings in person was some life altering experience. something otherworldly. but it wasn't. if you get close enough, you can glimpse the brush strokes, slight cracks in the illusion of the final image. it was the most real and tactile, mundane and ordinary affair. and that's what makes the art of viewing art so great. there is no secret to high brow culture. it's all overglorifyed because we're bored. and it was god damn miraculous. i loved every minute of walking through the massive gallery rooms because every person in there was just as, if not more, interesting to admire than the paintings. my earrings will never look as cool as the gold studs did on this one guy in a black trench and turtleneck. one girl had fading peachy hair and a septum and a striped sweater. an older woman with thin glasses and long grey hair, two friends video calling their friends back home, people speaking so many different languages, paintings of music, psyche, bodies, plants, starvation, triumph, faces, hands, i loved every second of the hours and hours we took to tiptoe along the creaky floors cradling our jackets and straining our necks. and then the rain started. we hiked a mile up a hill to the final exhibit on the palace grounds that was full of horrible horrible horrible modern art, like it was actually really bad. can't even count the amount of times my jaw dropped and allison and i would look at eachother and mouth "what the fuck?" under our breaths. we left that display fairly quickly. and the wind was blowing so hard, we were walking into it at a 45° angle. now, mind you, we didn't go into today with a plan. we just wanted to feel out the city. which was arguably to our detrement. allison and i always struggle to figure out where we want dinner from. maybe it's because europe thrives on cafes that close at 4, or maybe it's because every restaurant is also a bar, therefore they're packed and reservations are out weeks ahead. we seem to spend more time looking for a place to go then we spend physically seated in the restaurant. today, after searching and scanning for an hour, we eventually decided to brave the wind and the rain and go for pizza at pizza randale 1050 before heading back to our airbnb, showering, and partaking in some more complementary green tea and some wine i had bought at the palace gift shop. we got in before 7pm and we were both so exhausted. the bed is warm, and the howling wind can't make us cold in here, but it'll keep hammering at the windows and the late night drivers in their quickly accelerating electric cars will keep skidding their tires on the street while we try to fall asleep. february 4th it was snowing this morning. the snow fell in thick flakes, but disappeared just as quickly as it arrived. we went to cafe landtmann, a gorgeous and elegant place where they check your coats and drape white tablecloths over marble tables. i had avacado and egg on an english muffin with my turkish coffee. and then i tried a piece of their chocolate rum cake. we visited the parliament building and the marble statue of athena out front before walking to the national library in thier state hall. i haven't visited trinity college's library yet, but i think vienna might have outsold it. the ceiling was beautiful and ornate and the columns had statues and the books were all bound with dark and faded fabrics and linen thread. we weren't allowed to touch the books, but admiring them from afar sufficed. we went for boba (i got matcha milk tea of course) and then we visited ankeruhr, a clock featuring notable figures that pass through one by one every hour. it was 2:00, and the sun came out right on time to reflect brightly off the gold embossings and we were blinded trying to watch the passing figure ring in the hour. we wandered into a grocery store. they had fresh dragonfruit and a truffle counter kind of like pease's in springfield. there were three floors, with a glass elevator in the center. we looked at all the chocolates and wines and flowers. the grocery store was one of the best features of vienna. dublin groceries could never compare. st. peter's cathedral was a few blocks down. organ music, creaking pews, and footsteps the only audible sounds in the room. grandma told me she loves getting apple strudels, so allison and i grabbed one to go and boarded the tram back to our apartment where we took a break to rejuvenate, made ourselves the complimentary instant coffee next to the coffee machine in our kitchen, and enjoyed our strudels. at six, we went back into the city for dinner at bukowina, a romanian restaurant situated in a bright cream and stone alleyway. it was snowing again, and i swear it was one of the most european moments i've experienced yet. the dark windows, cobblestone street, cool wind dusting my nose bright pink, the server gesturing us in the door. i had schnitzel and sweet rosé. belly full, cheeks warm, we rounded the corner to st. anne's to watch a string quartet orchestra play mozart's the spring and beethoven's rasumowski. st. anne's, while smaller than the other cathedrals we visited today, had gold in every possible place it could be, without overwhelming the senses. we sat towards the back, so it was hard to see the performers. but the sound reverberated around the room and we spent the whole hour admiring every inch of the paintings, sculptures, and detailing. i'm so grateful that i got to visit the capital of classical music and hear it live in all its glory. february 5th once again, we trailed around the city in search of somewhere to get brunch before catching our flight back to dublin. cafe central had a line out the door, and it was unbearably cold, so we walked 20 minutes just to find out this new place was by reservation only and they were full. so we walked more. and eventually found a cafe. the employees look really frazzled, and we were in a rush so we wouldn't miss our plane, but they had space. so we sat and had a buttered croissant with raspberry jam and a latte before packing our things and going back to the airport. we passed a flower stand, and on the train ride out of the city, we could see a massive open plain of green and windmills and it reminded me of illinois. i smiled to myself that whole 15 minutes because i could feel the sun on my cheek and i realized for the first time in my life that i have a whole world inside of me that is unique to everyone else's. the city is magical, but it will never suit me the same way the empty horizons do. i've grown up with them. i know them. and knowing that about myself makes it so much easier to enjoy the city while i have it. it's important that i soak up the busy skylines before i spend the rest of my life only being able to recall them in my mind. we were going to try to grab some more food with actual sustinance before getting on the plane, but we ran into a passport queue that took us 30 minutes and then we accidentally went to gate 23 instead of 63, so by the time we made it to the correct place, the plane was already boarding. but thankfully we had made it just in time :) as we were taking off, the girl sitting behind us (from sweden, but with very british sounding accents) counted down 3...2...1...blast off! and said "woahhh i cahn't believe we're flying! and we're tilting!" the sun is so much brighter above the clouds. i listened to taylor swift. i mean really listened. she's mentioned (more than once) how she tears down banners of burnt memories or relationships with people that were important to her. it might do her some good to leave those banners up, no? just because something ends doesn't mean it has to be forgotten. as we descended, the kid looked out the window and said "look mum! is that ireland?" and pointed at dalkey island. her mom laughed. and then the whole family joked about how you probably couldn't even land a plane on an island that small. as we pulled into the terminal, she pointed at a parked aer lingus plane and said "that's an irish airline! i know because of the clover.....or maybe because it's green. isn't the irish flag green and white and orange?" her mom was impressed that she knew that. and so was i. we thought we might grab something to eat at the airport, but figured we'd just wait since we were going to dinner 15 minutes away. well...we got to the bus stop just as the 41 was pulling away, so we had to wait 16 minutes for the next one. then, as we were riding the bus, i felt like something was wrong. it took us a solid ten minutes to realize the bus was headed north. we were supposed to be going south. we got off in swords and waited another 10 minutes for another 41, southbound this time. it took us an hour to get to the restaurant where we waited a few minutes before we were informed it was reservation only. we found another restaurant around the corner and they had space for us as long as we left within an hour since the table was reserved later on. i got falafel tacos and a chai latte and allison let me have some of her cheesy potatoes. it was so nice to finally get some food in our system after a tiring day of traveling. the bus only took us about 5 minutes closer to campus, and the N4 was done for the night, so we had to walk 20 minutes to get back to our rooms and finally relax. all the travel complications really suck, but they don't really matter at all because i know i just experienced a very important weekend of my life and every beautiful crevice of that city is going to stay with me for as long as i live.
february 12
florence + the machine, wicklow, glendalough, bray, howth
back in october, the day ren got his concussion, my friends and i went to a one ok rock concert in chicago. ren, ace, natalie, and jazmin took me and alli to try korean corn dogs for the first time at the h mart. i just found a korean street food place in dublin that sells them. they remind me of my friends but they also just taste so good! they have aloe water and ramune. it's strange that i love ramune as much as i do. because i don't even really like the taste of soda all that much. i just love opening the bottles. at our family new years party, we had to open the 7up and ginger ale to make the punch we make every year. my cousin magnus told me that his favorite sound in the whole world is the fizzing pop of opening a 2 liter soda. he insisted that we don't make the punch without him cuz he just had to hear us open the sodas! i think the tinkering of the glass marble inside the ramune bottle and the fizz of the carbonation is wonderful. i bought four different flavors for myself. one of my favorite ways to spend my nights here is to put in my noise cancelling earbuds, play music i loved years ago, drink a mug of wine, turn off all the lights in my room, dance, and stare at the moon. i've been watching hunter x hunter and getting teriyaki brown rice burritos from the campus casa de fuego. as an early 20th birthday present, my dad got me a ticket to see florence + the machine at 3arena! i went by myself and stood in line for an hour just to find out i was in the wrong line and had to go to the other side of the building. once inside, i got a pint of orchard thieves and headed to my seat. florence wears flowy dresses that follow her around the stage as she dances and runs barefoot from one side to another. she really got the crowd involved and rested her forehead against the forehead of a girl in the front row. it was a really beautiful show. friday was our first trip with my program. we bussed down to wicklow county to visit the glendalough mountains and a seaside town called bray. the bus ride took us up a mountain and past stone walls and hedges and it was my first time leaving the city and seeing green. ellie told me she loves travelling with me because i get so excited about things she'd normally brush over. she said i help her appreciate things more. that's one of the best compliments i think i've ever received in my life. the ride was about an hour and a half. i started to get a bit motion sick going back and forth up the mountains, so i was very grateful to reach the park and step off the bus to get some fresh air. man, the air was so easy to inhale. we started at an old monastic site and then walked to the lakes before we hiked up a mountain to get a view of the valley. ellie and allison and i talked about our relationships, our future ambitions, growing up with technology, and how cold the water looked. in taylor swift's song sweet nothing, she says, "i spy with my little eye, tiny as a firefly, a pebble that we picked up last july. down deep inside your pocket, we almost forgot it, does it ever miss wicklow sometimes?" ever since i first heard the song in november, i've been so excited to go to wicklow and pick up a pebble. i picked up 34 pebbles. we walked past some sheep on our way back to the bus. some of the french students were gathered ahead of us looking at something off the path. when we caught up to them, we found two frogs...having a nice time, if you will. one of the students yelled "frog fuck!" in his heavy french accent. it was the hardest i've laughed since i heard them playing firework by katy perry at kc peaches. the trip to bray also made me motion sick as we went back down the mountains. i put in my earbuds and listened to (you) on my arm by leith ross, ameile by gracie abrams, and call me what you like by lovejoy. these songs were all released at midnight the night before, but i hadn't been able to listen to them because midnight in the states was 6 am for me. we got dinner. i had lasagna and white wine. slightly buzzed, the three of us walked down to the water and touched the irish sea together. i put my phone and my camera away and sat down in the rocks. i stared at the water. i watched it ebb towards me and back away again. the sun didn't come out at all, but the grey sky wasn't awful. it was romantic enough. i broke my step count record, reaching 19.5k steps by the end of the day. saturday, allison and i went to howth. it was just an hour bus ride. we went to a cafe and got pink beet chai, pancakes, potatoes, pulled pork, and eggs. we started at the howth lighthouse and worked our way all the way around the east coast of the penninsula down to the bailey lighthouse viewpoint. once again being by the irish sea, i could smell the air the same way i smelled it when i stepped out of our van for the first time in galveston, texas. all the buildings along the coast are colorful, small alley ways in between the houses, landscaping, bus stops, ships in the harbour, seagulls, crows, people walking their dogs, people taking pictures, people zipping up their coats to block the wind. we reached a point on a cliff where allison asked me to take a picture of her feet hanging off. she has a fear of heights, so we were there for about twenty minutes while she worked up the courage to sit and lower her legs over the edge. there was a couple that had climbed down the cliff and gone out onto one of the large boulders in the sea. they looked peaceful and i stared at them for a bit. by the end, we were tired. we had walked for four hours. we got the bus back into dublin and went to pocha for korean corn dogs again. today, we took it easy. i did laundry, i went to the tram cafe and got a latte and greek yogurt. i took out my trash, i wrote, i researched fantasy utopia, i walked through the park in the sun. i wonder how long it's gonna take for me to fill myself up with happy things before my eyes start to glow with it.
february 19
dicey's, anticipating travel, monkstown, irish dancing, eating and window shopping, harry styles night
i only have one class on mondays and it doesn't start till three. i decided to scan the shelves of the library for books i might be able to use for my research papers and then i took the bus out early to get lunch. i had a kebab on pita bread with lamb meat, coleslaw, rocket, housemade sauce, and chili sauce. i guess i didn't realize that chili sauce meant spice. i had to spend 3 euro on a water bottle because the flavor was so intense and nearly unbearable for my weak spice tolerance. i still had three hours to enjoy, so i went to insomnia coffee, got a matcha, and sat in the corner by the window in the direct sunlight. the sun on my skin felt like summer and the lincoln trail and the light purple justice tank top i wore all the time when i was eight. seeing budding trees and feeling warm winds are some of the only ways i can feel my younger self still living inside of the girl i am now. i felt it there in insominia and i feel it now, writing by my window and watching the clouds steadily swim through the golden light that's wrapping itself around the bare branches of the tree outside of my apartment. there are buds. very small, minute little specks of green, but they're there. i hadn't noticed them before. tuesday morning i got to ask a fellow student, maria, about her experience getting her phd at dcu. she's doing comparative literature in english and french. i'd love to consider schools outside of the states after i finish my master's degree in two and half years. that's really soon. i'm intimidated by how fast time has started passing ever since i walked out of my high school for the last time. i spent my second lecture sketching tattoos ideas and doodling next to the stories that dr. o' seaghdha printed out for us. allison and i booked our travel plans for going up north in a month or so and then we joined jenna and her friends from notre dame for drinks in this guy ryan's trinity college dorm room before walking sixteen minutes through the city to dicey's (club in dublin) for their weekly tuesday night scene. the trinity dorms smell like my favorite thai restaurant from home, little siagon. the city is so much more alive when you're just slightly inebriated and power walking somewhere. i talked to their friend michelle. she told me she's often pinned as a horrible person cuz she studies physics and philosophy. she offered me a piece of this block of cheese she pulled out of her pocket. she begged me to forgive her for being the type of person who bites string cheese. the bouncers wouldn't let her into the club cuz she'd been drinking straight vodka out of a metal water bottle for three hours and couldn't keep her eyes in focus. jenna had accidentally gotten the wrong ticket, so we got split up once we were all inside. allison had a pint of guinness and i had a pint of orchard thieves. we hung around long enough to finish our drinks and only have two interactions with men before tossing our empty cups and leaving. it was near 1 am, so thank god the kfc was open! we laughed and talked the whole way there. we got chicken sandwiches and made it home at 2 am, unscathed. we went back into the city on wednesday night after booking travel for edinburgh and her letting me briefly talk about how much i love postmodernism and the future of theory. we got dinner at smokin bones where we suffered the misfortune of being sat next to an older couple who felt like loudly comparing sam smith to cancer and, upon finding out their waiter was from mexico, proceeding to joke about how the white wife gets mistaken as mexican sometimes. when she brought them their drinks, they bothered her for a solid couple minutes about all the spanish speaking people they knew, as if they desperately needed to prove they could never hold anything against the waiter for her nationality. the secondhand embarrassment we all felt for this couple was preposterous. allison and i didn't talk during our whole meal, instead listening to this lady say a slur while her husband tried to justify murdering people. we went to a bubble waffle ice cream shop after that and met a girl who's studying in limerick who had never tried boba before and wanted to get something for her brother. they were in dublin to apply for their visas. the sweet smell of waffle cones lingered in my skin for the rest of the night. i could smell it as i fell asleep. thursday morning, this old lady got off the bus at the same stop as me and it turned out we were both grabbing coffee at kennedy's. she sat next to me and told me i reminded her of her granddaughter because of the way i was nodding my head to the music on the bus. she said the only difference between me and her granddaughter is that the other girl is fairer and irish. she thought it was cool that i was reading my book and studying literature because all of her family members have graduated already. she was wrinkly and sweet and her eyes were shiny and she had a colorful scarf. i stayed too long enjoying my caramel latte that i couldn't spare a few minutes to wait for the bus at the bus stop. i had to speed walk half an hour to campus. i can't complain though, because the neighborhoods are beautiful and the sound of seagulls and squeaky bus brakes and the crosswalks and the faint ringing of the metal zipper on my bag tapping the othe rmetal zipper every time i take a step was enough to keep myself entertained. after my classes, allison and i finally booked our flights and nights in bordeaux and paris for our upcoming reading week. friday, i finished my first paper for this semester and listened to inhaler's new album. allison got a cold, so she had to opt out of our cea event for the night: irish dancing lessons! ellie had a friend from home who's studying in spain come visit. his name is micah and he came with us to the lessons to fill allison's spot. we left around 3 and i spent the ride getting to know him. his family, his experience with ticketmaster and taylor swift's eras tour tickets, christmas music, the colors of the convenience stores in spain, . there was british guy sitting behind us that felt the need to interject every once in a while and tell us about canadian holiday films and irish stew. he had a habit of spitting while he talked and wiping the snot away from his nose with the palm of his hand. we planned on getting dinner in bray, but realized we actually only needed to take the dart to monkstown, so we were able to get off the train early, sparing us from this guy's opinion on peasant food. we made this realization about 5 minutes too late, however, so we had to walk half an hour backwards to get closer to where we'd be learning irish dancing later on. we stopped in a cafe and grabbed a drink for take away. i got gingerbread hot chocolate. we walked down the stone wall to the irish sea. i picked up shells. micah took off his socks and shoes and waded in a bit. it's so easy to talk to new people because there's so much unexplored conversational territory. the three of us had stuff to talk about all night long. the sun was setting so we decided to get dinner then, but it took us a while to walk around monkstown and find a place that would serve irish food for micah to try. the pubs were really just for drinking. we went inside four or five different places before finally settling for an italian spot where we got to make our own pasta combination. i was excited to try their potato gnoochi, but they had run out for the night, so i got spinach noodles with meat sauce, black olives, zucchini, and parmesean. we went into one of the pubs after that and each had a pint of rockshore. we spent a good hour talking about our experiences and custromer interactions and horror stories from working at restaurants and grocery stores. we just barely made it to the irish dancing event on time. the instructor had volunteers come up and learn the dances in front of everyone and then we'd all do them together. they were so much fun! we took a break halfway through. there was a little pub connected to the building we were dancing in and there was a group of people sitting in a semi-circle playing traditional music on string instruments. it felt like a moment that would be highlighted in a travel series on east ireland. i hope i don't forget the dances. i found it so easy to smile and quickly count off, one two three four five six seven, one two three, one two three, and repeat it over and over with a guy that stomped really heavily on his feet and a girl in a wallows tshirt and ellie and this red headed girl who got comfortable with the dances so quickly, she was doing them with her eyes closed. we brought the bus back into the city and stopped at a pub called kennedy's. it was crowded, body to body, with adults that were plastered out of their minds. we got pints again, and stood in a corner where we danced and screamed to tina turner and abba and nicki minaj. it was hot and we were all wearing layers. i loved seeing how much fun everyone was having. the three of us were the only people under the age of 30 in that whole building. there was a moment where i realized that i'm going to get to go out and have fun for the rest of my life. it doesn't stop on tuesday when i turn 20 and have to close the door on my teenage years. we got back to campus around 2am. i slept well and, in the morning, allison and i headed to the south of the city centre to get breakfast at press cafe. it's a cafe inside of an old greenhouse attatched to the national print museaum. i had a belgain waffle with avacado, poached eggs, ham, maple syrup, and a pot of earl grey tea. this inspired us to look for a tea shop, so we walked half an hour through a park and a neighborhood to get to wall and keogh. they had teas for sale in big glass jars and a wall of sheles with books and mini lamps. it was one of the most hipster places i've been in this city. and i loved every second of it. we're already planning on going back soon. we went to the asia market and then stopped inside two clothing stores. the first one was full of hundred year old dresses and scarves and earrings, and the second was a shop of clothes and jewelry designed by irish designers. we went through the street market again and then crossed the river to lemonjelly where i tried irish coffee. it was alright, but it needed some milk to dillute how bleachy the whiskeys made it taste. we stopped in a little rock shop with gemstones and rose quartz and agates of all different shades before heading back to campus to recuperate for a few hours. we headed out again at nine to grab creme brulee ice cream from three twenty and soup from charlie's. the harry styles night at the workman's club started at 11:30. i haven't listened to harry or one direction in a while, so the songs felt so refreshing and i spent the whole time screaming and smiling into the crowd of arms and red, blue, green flashing lights and sliding around on the ice somebody had spilled from their cocktail. allison and i both had two pints of orchard thieves. the dj had us do a conga line during treat people with kindness. i figured satellite was probably going to be my favorite to experience in that environment. it was top tier. so was midnight memories, kiwi, and best song ever. they played matilda, interestingly enough. and cherry too. we didn't get back to campus until almost four am. it was a good way to celebrate my birthday! i'm almost certain that tuesday is going to feel like an ending more than a beginning. two full decades of me. of waking up. of seeing the sky. of popping my knuckles. it's not like anything is going to change. but it's the mindset of it all. i turned thirteen so long ago. i just hope my twenties are just as full and vibrant as the past six years of my life have been. i'd hate to ever feel like the noise of it all is getting dull.
february 25-28
aunt stephanie and aunt kim! (wicklow, kilkenny, cork, dublin)
february 25 on my way to the airport to meet my aunts, i looked out the window of the bus and saw a girl wearing a beanie sitting in the driver's seat of her car in an empty car park eating alone at 9am. i desperately miss my car and sitting with the rooftop open, music turned up, an iced coffee, colorful beads hanging from my rear view mirror, and i'm looking forward to getting to experience that again when i move home. the sight of familiar faces walking through the arrivals gate was the absolute best feeling! my heart skipped a beat and i got to hug aunt kim and aunt stephanie and spend two hours catching up on what everyone has been up to back home. we bussed to our apartment near the north docks where we found a surprise pair of underwear tucked behind the door to the bedroom that the previous guest had left behind. we got lunch at kc peaches and then walked around the city centre taking in the cobblestone and bustling friday afternoon crowd. i showed them dublin castle and the churro shop. we went to the centra across the street from our place to get snacks for the traveling we had planned for the next few days. they fell asleep around 8, and i watched wes anderson's film the grand budapest hotel (2014) to fill the time until i fell asleep too. his method of storytelling is my absolute favorite! the scriptwriters and art directors never fail to amaze me. they make me think and feel. i've been balancing this soul crushing desire to be a writer vs the dreaded but undeniably motivating appeal of lecturing and making actual money so that i can travel and sauté onions and subscribe to the new york times in my late twenties. what i want for myself most desperately and above all else is to be able to recite a handful of beloved poems from memory and to be so still in the world that my temporary residency in any place i live doesn't add or remove anything from the atmosphere. when i was in vienna, i went to a restaurant where, when you order wine, they pour a sip for you to try and then they wait for you to approve the taste before pouring the rest of your glass full. how wonderfully pretentious! i hope that i can channel all of this worldly and tactile stuff of life into a novel or story that emulates wes anderson's work. he’s one of my biggest inspirations i think. along with donna tartt and greta gerwig, joan didion and haruki murakami, clairo and billie marten. february 26 sunday morning, we got on the tour bus at o'connell street upper with just enough time for me to run into cafe nero and get a gingerbread and caramel latte. richard (our tour guide) had his dark wash jeans rolled and cuffed, smart socks, some type of black leather oxford shoes, a light blue cap, a black sweater and rain coat. he's a historian from canada, but he's lived in ireland long enough to have a natural irish dialect. it paired well with the ride to county wicklow. he spent the ride playing us irish music, both traditional and modern, throwing in a dermot kennedy cd and playing hozier right as we crossed over the dublin/wicklow county line. hozier grew up in county wicklow and he lives there still. the rain was drizzling down leaving orbs and droplets on the glass window panes. i stared at them, watching them slide as richard spent the trip down to wicklow telling us about the irish folklore and superstitions. he told us about the faeries. the irish believe the faeries are tiny people who would take young boys and replace them with mischievous versions of themselves, unrecognizable from one another. this idea of a tiny trickster evolved to the mythological image of a three ft tall shoemaker that westernization developed into the leprechaun we know today, the name coming from the luchorpán who were a people who moved to ireland. the celts were tall, you see, so everyone else who traveled to ireland was considered a "smaller people" and the folklore of it basically alienated and othered people who weren't native to the island. irish faeries are still part of their culture and sometimes people leaves wreaths outside their doors to ward them off and protect their children from becoming defiant. as richard was telling us these stories and playing traditional irish string music, the sun came out. and on our right, we could see the end of a rainbow. it dove down from the clouds right into the base of a wicklow mountain of bright green and hedges. i've never seen the end of a rainbow before. i can't describe how it felt. it was like the last two months hit me all at once and i realized that i'm in the right place at the right time. this semester, hell this whole year of university has been, for me, the most colorful, busy, fulfilling year of my life. i've found who i am and what i love. i know what i treasure, what i believe in, and here i am on the island of written word, romantic rain, green green green and blue. i adore stone and ivy. i adore the moss and the rust and the wind. seeing the end of the rainbow through the aftermath of the rain in the green hills and pastures was like the climax of a bildungsroman novel. wherever you go, there you are. and here i am. i couldn’t have picked a better country to live in. the bus stopped on a sheep farm and we got to watch a sheep farmer call his sheep with his dogs and hold one of his newborn lambs. we walked through the glendalough monastery and along the path to the lakes where i found a pool of shiny rocks to collect for my sister when i see her again. we got burgers and walked along the water taking in the chilly wind and the emerald hills. on the bus to kilkenny, i listened to a recording of sylvia plath reading her poem 'tulips' and a man who was in the audience coughed in the background of the audio. isn't it so funny how he's preserved, organic matter petrified, for the rest of time in that sound escaping his throat? richard played us orinoco flow by enya and we weaved out of the mountains down through the little towns of baltinglass and hollywood (yes, they have a hollywood sign). richard told us about the history of land disputes and wealth inequality in ireland. we saw this huge manor on endless acres of bright green land that used to be controlled by a single family. richard told us about banshees -screaming figures, omens of death- and the people he knows that have come face to face with them. banshees are essential to irish folklore. hell they're so relevant that the newest award winning irish film is called the banshees of inisherin. (really good film! siobhán is my fav!) entering kilkenny, richard told us that they're a city, not a town, passionate about their gaa involvement and hurling wins. and sure enough, on the sidewalk, a "lad" with the hurling stick (called a hurley) walked past us right as we pulled into the city centre. we visited kilkenny castle, which used to be just as important as dublin castle. they were of equal merit in early irish norman conquest. we walked along the lower street to a stone alleyway where richard showed us the location of petronella de meath’s execution. she was the first "witch" to be burned, almost 400 years before the events of salem. definitely the first in ireland, but also rumored to be the first in all of europe. we walked through a church and its neighboring graveyard of large stone slab headstones before popping into kyteler’s inn. petronella was a handmaid to a hiberno norman noblewoman named alice kyteler who owned the inn and was married four times, each husband mysteriously disappearing resulting in alice’s growing wealth. alice was the accused “witch”, but she escaped, leaving petronella to be burned in her place. we did some shopping to find uncle kenny a flat cap and then rode the bus back to dublin, past the mountains and along the motorway. the roads look similar to the interstates back home. just more proof that people everywhere are the same. we did a night bus tour of dublin city. locals sometimes refer to the spire as the “erection by the intersection”. apparently one direction recorded at windmill lane recording studios. i’ll have to go in there sometime before i go home. bram stoker took inspiration from st. ann’s church when he was writing dracula. oscar wilde’s apartment is just right down the street from his childhood home, which is across from his statue in the park. we wanted to get dinner at darkeykelly’s, but it was too crowded. we ended up going to forno 500 where i got a pizza with meatballs and a glass of wine. then, we slept. february 27 another early morning, we had a bit of difficulty figuring out exactly which side of the street we were supposed to find the bus on. a canadian psychology professor who was going on the same tour ran into us and we helped each other get to the correct spot. she seemed chatty, like the type of person who’ll tell it to you straight, voicing her concerns about the pickup location immediately after the driver arrived. her name was olga, and she asked the driver where the tour guide was…big mistake on her part…because the driver and the tour guide were one and the same. his name was jj, and he loved to talk about his family and his past and crack jokes and puns he had memorized. her question landed her and jj in a jovial, teasing partnership. we happened to get stuck in city traffic for an hour, throwing off our schedule for the whole day, but giving olga and jj enough time to tease one another until olga eventually asked to sit in the empty tour guide seat in the front of the bus and tell us fun facts over the microphone. she told us about faerie trees and stone hedges and looked up information about our first upcoming stop: the rock of cashel. jj asked olga to sing for us. she refused, so jj decided to sing instead. the whole ordeal felt like a family road trip. everyone was laughing even though we were stuck on the motorway going 5 mph behind a semi. we eventually made it to the rock of cashel, a large, stone, gothic castle in ruins, but grand nonetheless. crows were circling overhead, and it was situated on the top of a hill, overlooking the grey and white roofs of the houses in the town of cashel. it felt medieval, like the type of castle you’d find in monty python and the holy grail (1975). i ate milk chocolate covered banana chips and sour cream and onion pringles on our way down to cork. the city resembles dublin, in a way, with the river running through the centre of rows of old buildings and shops. we went to the english market where there were stands selling breads and jams and fruits and olives and flowers and chocolates. one stand had full pig heads on display in their fridge. we got three creme brulees from a dessert stand and then went to a kebab shop for dinner. we made it back to the bus by the skin of our teeth, eight minutes late with a slight scold from jj since we were already behind schedule. fifteen minutes later, we arrived at blarney castle and gardens! the castle was so much bigger than i thought it was going to be. its base was a large rock embedded in the hill. the climb up to the top got narrower and narrower as we hiked up the stone spiral staircase. it’s hard to imagine what it was actually like to live in tiny rooms of stone like that. the top of blarney castle is basically a rectangle where you walk around the outside and the middle is entirely open, so you can see all the way down to the ground level. the ceilings and the floors didn’t withstand the trial of time so it’s all open, and dizzying to look down. the actually blarney stone itself is hard to reach. you have to lay down on your back, grab these black guardrails above your head, and slide backwards until you’re hanging upside down. and then you have to pull yourself further down and out to reach the block of stone. now that i’ve kissed it, expect nothing but eloquence from me from now on. we walked back down the castle and through the gardens. they had poisonous plants and sculptures and an archway to walk under. there was a small cave on the grounds too. we bussed back to dublin and got ben and jerry’s ice cream from the centra, watched some tv, and i fell asleep on the couch. february 28 we got the bus to trinity college where we met up with our tour guide for the day, neil. he’s from mullingar, the same place niall horan grew up, and he used that as a way to bond with me over some of his references. we started our tour with the book of kells. this guy gordon works in the kitchen at the brickhouse and when he found out i was moving to ireland, he told me the book is the most important thing i need to see. i’ve heard so many people talk it up that, in my head, i was imagining some giant, glowing, golden book with thin, bible-like pages. it was absolutely nothing like that. in fact, it was drastically underwhelming. we weren’t allowed to take pictures, but it was in a room off to the side, low-lit, kept in a glass case in the center of the room. it was about the size of a scrapbook, but not as wide. the pages were like watercolor paper and it wasn’t text or manuscript-like. it was art. maybe if i would have looked it up, i wouldn’t have been as shocked as i was. but i really did think the pages were going to be covered in gold text, not drawings by teenage monks. regardless, the detail was impeccable and it was actually a beautiful book! up the stairs, though, was the long room. an entire floor of this building dedicated to trinity’s books. they have one copy of every printed book before the year 1900. they’re currently renovating, but the smell of the room and the rows of marble busts spanning the length of either side of the room made it easy to ignore that some of the shelves were cleared for cleaning. it was dark brown. wooden. warm. mary wollstonecraft and ada lovelace are the only women featured in the room. when you first enter, to the left, there’s a thin, black, metal spiral staircase in front of the window. just like the national library in vienna, the only sound in the room was the creaking of the floor as people walked through and the families asking each other to take photos. and also the buzzing and whirring of whatever restoration they were doing behind a screened off section (you have to tune that part out to really experience the long room in its glory lol). we left trinity and walked through the powerscourt townhouse where he told his best joke of the day (what do you call an irishman hanging from the ceiling? sean d'olier.) and then went to dublin castle. neil took us through the gardens and told us a very long and drawn out simplified history of the vikings and the irish and the british. he showed us ireland’s lady justice, facing into the castle’s courtyard, sword wielded, threatening the government, telling them they better serve the people correctly and justly. the tour ended there, and i took aunt kim and aunt steph to elephant & castle in the hopes of getting an irish breakfast. we missed the breakfast hours though, so we all got something else. spaghetti, risotto, and a sandwich. we ran into a sweet shop really quickly before going to our second tour of the day which started at the jameson whiskey distillery. we all had a good laugh when it turned out neil was the tour guide for this tour as well! we got to try some of their whiskey while we looked around their bar area and their gift shop. on the tour, we saw how the whiskey is made and they let us taste three different kinds. i liked the black barrel the best. neil took us to the brazen head after that, the oldest pub in all of ireland. he had us try the brazen red, which was a beer that tasted fine. i don’t know. i’m not a big beer fan. i think it’s something my dad would really like. the next stop was the guinness storehouse. we went through the five floors of exhibits. there were old guinness advertisements and lessons on how to pour it properly. there were lightbulbs dangling from the ceiling that i kept trying to get a good picture of, just because i thought they were pretty. turns out, if you stand in the right place, they line up to make the logo, the brian boru harp, which we had seen in the long room earlier that morning. the top floor of the storehouse is known as the gravity bar. you get a pint and get to walk around in this room where the walls are entirely glass giving you a 360° view of dublin city. we were there for about an hour, sitting with all the people on the tour and listening to neil tell us about anything and everything we all felt like talking about: shows, nightclubs, tours, apartment prices, etc. after that tour, we went to the brazen head again to enjoy our last meal together (i got bangers and mash…my favorite!) before i separated from my aunts to head back to school and pack my bags for my flight to bordeaux the next day. stepping out of our little place and waving goodbye to them sucked. i had to compartmentalize my life here and my life back home in two different places in my mind. it was nice to refresh the side of me that they occupy. the familiarity was welcoming and comfortable to slip into. taking the elevator out of the building and getting the bus back to campus, i was alone again. and i’m getting better at being okay with that.
march 1-10
bordeaux, paris
march 1 at this point, i’ve mentioned to so many people in my life that the airport is like the coolest amusement park ride. i have so much fun scanning my ticket and waiting in line (maybe enjoying a pan au chocolat and a latte in the process) and then taking off as the plane goes blasting full speed ahead down the runway and up into the sky. my friend haniah from high school once posted that harry styles’ self-titled album is the album she listens to every time she’s at the airport. since then, i’ve noticed that luke hemming’s when facing the things we turn away from is always in my rotation. i was never a five seconds of summer fan, but this album is one of the best albums i have in my spotify arsenal. this ride to bordeaux has been my favorite plane experience yet. it was an aer lingus flight, so the plane was bigger and the seats weren’t all full. i had a row of three seats to myself, so i could set my sweater in the seat next to me. i got a raisin fruit scone with strawberry jam and butter. it was only the afternoon when i descended into france. the waxing gibbous moon was in the sky, and the french rivers, towns, countryside, and windmills were visible below. i was listening to dakota warren’s “sisyphus is doing quite well, actually” spotify playlist featuring songs like lujon by henry mancini and horseheadedfleshwizard by devendra banhart. i was staring out the window as the plane was landing and felt nothing but pure and unmoving happiness. grandma talks so fondly about bordeaux everytime she talks about france. i’m so glad i got to check it off my list of places i wanted to see! i met up with allison in the airport and we got a bus into the city to our airbnb. she told me all about her previous days that she had spent in spain seeing medieval villages and trying amazing desserts. our airbnb was on the ground floor of an apartment building, the entrance in a beige stone alleyway with a heavy blue painted door. the alleyway was right around the corner from a fromagerie (cheese shop) so that was our first stop. we got three different cheeses to try. a goat cheese with thyme, a blue cheese in a wax, and a blue cheese in a tray. we stopped at a boulangerie (bread shop) to get a baguette to try the cheeses with. then we went to la mie câline to grab dinner for takeaway and went back to the airbnb to feast! i got a quiche, a chocolate chip cookie, and orange juice. there was a floor-length mirror in the living space of the airbnb and i caught a glimpse of myself in it out of the corner of my eye. i actually do look like i’m twenty. i was wearing a dark grey turtleneck and even though i’m short, my face doesn’t look the same as it did when i was fifteen when i could get away with ordering off the kids menu. boygenius released their newest song “not strong enough” so i sat on the pull out couch and watched the music video. i teared up, because it really captured what it feels like to hang out with your friends and go on road trips and wrap yourself in a blanket while you watch the sun disappear. maybe it was a mixture of this reminiscent nostalgia, or maybe it was a completely naturally occurring wave of emotion but, as we sat down to try our cheeses, dread and fear gripped me and my stomach started to knot and my neck started to flush. the initial excitement about being in bordeaux faded and was quickly replaced with an acute awareness that i was once again in a place that functioned with a completely different lexicon than i was used to. there were men talking, maybe arguing, maybe joking, maybe just conversing, in the alleyway right outside our airbnb. obviously i had no way of knowing what was going on, since they were speaking in french. but their voices were firm and i wasn’t all that overjoyed at the prospect of having to leave the walls of the airbnb and face the world ever again. i recentered myself. allison and i watched a couple episodes of an anime and then we watched white chicks and i let myself lay in the room and get comfortable. it worked, and i went to sleep happy. march 2 thursday, i spent the day alone. allison woke up with achy joints and symptoms of food poisoning (probably from the cheese). she had to stay back from our activities that we had booked and rest. so i laced up my converse and walked along the river alone (i went past the place de la bourse!) to the start of a walking tour of downtown bordeaux. the tour was half in french and half in english, so our guide had to say everything twice. we started at the monument aux girondins which is their statue of lady justice placed upon a tower with beautifully carved horses and people and vines along each side standing for industry and the arts and the exile of ignorance. the french architecture, much like vienna, was all symmetrical and monotone. everything was built of local sandstone and limestone, making the whole city a beige/tan/sandy color with ornate shapes and figures chipped into the stone. the guide walked with us through the streets, pointing out the centuries of construction and organic layouts and the apartments, cafes, and restaurants. we stopped at the église notre-dame, which was a large church, completely silent inside, a wide open room with mantels and paintings and pews. it was like a film to walk up and down the tiny alleyways. the stone streets, bright blue electric scooters, black iron window boxes, red striped cafe canopies, wicker chairs and tables, pigeons, people with long coats, people with cigarettes, people with shopping bags, menus reading “café au lait”, “canelé”, “toast à l'avocat”, the clicking of heels on the ground, and the muffled murmuring of people walking past or sitting on a bench telling each other about their younger brothers. after the walking tour, i went into a few shops to look at the french jewelry and clothing. i bought an orange coat and a red cashmere and wool scarf from a secondhand shop, jolie mome. i went to a creperie called “la parenthèse” where i got a chocolate and banana crepe and a latte with whipped cream. i went past a few thrift stores that were calling to me, but withheld from buying anything because, first of all, i had absolutely no room in my luggage and, two, spending money is the last thing i need to be doing. i’m going so far into debt just being here in the first place. but boy oh boy do i desperately want to own a pair of converse’s run star legacy cx platform gold chain shoes. they look so elegant with the business casual coats and denim and heeled look that european women my age are wearing everywhere i go. it would be so cool to look as cool as they do. i walked east to the garonne river to get on a boat and tour the city from the water. the tour started just north of the pont de pierre, one of bordeaux’s most famous bridges, and went up the water to the pont d’aquitaine bridge before turning around and heading back. this tour was also in french and english, so the guide would tell us something in french and then repeat it again in english. she told us about how quick the water flows through the river, stirring up so much silt, which is why the water is the color of toffee, a biscuit, caramel, rather than being clear and blue. the river is shaped like a crescent, which is why they call it “port de la lune”, the moon harbour. there was a drink included with the ticket and, since allison wasn’t able to make it, the tour guide told me i could get two drinks, which made it possible for me to try both the bordeaux rosé and the bordeaux red. they’re strong wines. i finished the rosé but could only sip a few centimeters off the top of the red because my limbs were getting heavy and my mind reached that familiar fog that made it difficult to pay too much attention to the river and had me staring intently at the liquid in my glass, trying to clear my head to prepare for my walk back to the airbnb. the walk took me past the porte de bourgogne, basically an arc de triomphe knock off. i checked in with allison and got us some grapes, bananas, and an orange from a fruit stand on our street. we spent the rest of the night in the airbnb. i watched joan didion: the center will not hold (2017), barbie and the diamond castle (2008), and taylor swift reputation stadium tour (2018), took a shower, and went to sleep. i didn’t have enough time to venture into the wine country that grandma speaks so fondly of, but i saw enough of the city to understand why it’s one of her favorite places. march 3 allison and i got breakfast at books and coffee cafe. i had pancakes with bacon, maple syrup, and an egg with a matcha latte. we had waited until the night before to buy our train tickets to paris, which was a big mistake, because it cost us €95 each. we had no choice but to eat the cost. it’s not like we were gonna just…not get to paris. we had rooms and tours and a flight booked there. we had to walk south half an hour to get to the train station. the south side of the city was undergoing lots of construction and we walked past quite a few unkempt windowsills and buildings that made me feel a bit nervous. i wasn’t even completely sure i had the correct address in my google maps, but we made the walk anyways. thank god it was the correct station. the uneasiness from that walk paired with the unfamiliarity of the functionality of the station itself (i’ve never taken a train somewhere before) made me so nervous i swear i almost started crying. i didn't know how to get to the train, and i was trying to figure it out so that allison wouldn’t have to deal with any of the stress of travel while she was recovering from food poisoning. as an older sister and someone who has lived on their own for a couple years now, it’s almost habitual for me to expect the weight of responsibility and navigation to fall on me. i thought i could carry it. but god it would’ve been so wonderful to have someone else there to figure that part out for me. i didn’t want to face the instability and cluelessness i was experiencing at that station. i had to ask someone running a chocolate stand for help. we got on the correct train with ten minutes to spare. needless to say, i needed a break. i needed that two hour train ride. going through the tunnels on the train was the most physical pressure i've ever experienced on my body and in my ears. i had to keep yawning and swallowing and stretching to keep myself from passing out. i thought the view out the window of a train through the french countryside would be some type of magic, but it was just like home. it reminded me of being really young and driving down to troy to see grandma with mom and emily. the trees were bare, the grass was just turning green, there were fields and towns sporadically sitting on the hills. i listened to the chill rock bands i love like jet black alley cat and inhaler and sun room and i let myself melt into the seat and close my eyes. because getting off the train in paris was even worse than the train station in bordeaux. we had to pay to use the bathroom and all the instructions and maps were in french and i just had no idea how to find the metro and where to get tickets. the concrete building meant there were only pockets of places where i had signal so i could use my phone to look things up. we walked around trying to follow the signs, the station was crowded like the aftermath of a concert, the sound of people talking to each other and the squealing of train breaks, metal on metal, the zipping and footsteps and tapping and scanning was all so overwhelming, my legs were shaking by the time we finally found the line for metro tickets. i think that’s the most scared i have ever been in my life. but things quickly turned around for the better. they really had us in the first half! upon exiting the metro station at sully-morland, we stepped onto the street where there were a few people on bikes, some pigeons, a tiny park, greenery, and all of the loud sounds quieted. i could breathe again. we checked into our hostel and on our right, there were a few other girls from the states talking about the steak restaurant they were gonna go to for dinner. i think i really needed to hear a familiar dialect. something about their presence immediately made me forget all of the uneasiness i felt throughout the morning and early afternoon. i let myself really come to terms with the fact that i was in paris, the city i grew up hearing about and seeing in movies and never dreaming that i would actually see in person in my entire lifetime. the hostel was actually really nice! which i was so grateful for, because i was quite worried about staying in a place where i didn’t feel safe or capable of letting my guard down at night. we set our things down in our room and i suddenly got an intense craving for boba. i found a boba shop up the hill, and we walked over a bridge through some bustling streets to get there. i got a strawberry brown sugar boba. it tasted so warm and i smiled to myself as i drank it. everywhere i go, i can always find tapioca. we walked back across the bridge at golden hour, the row of riverside buildings glowing orange, to a noddle shop where i got stir fry with baby ribs. i haven’t had very much meat over here, just because it’s not exactly cheap or readily available. those ribs could’ve given my dad’s smoker and grill a run for their money. i thoroughly enjoyed having such a filling meal after the events of the day. walking back to the hostel, the evening glow on the geometric sandstone buildings, the people on bikes, the road leading ahead over the bridge and out of sight looked like a painting. i told allison how beautiful i thought it was and how, if it was a color, it would be pink, even thought everything was mostly beige and blue. i listened through ethel cain’s preacher’s daughter and fell asleep in my little bunk by 10:30. march 4 we were staying near montmartre, paris’ artist district. we had a food tour booked in the morning. our tour guide, abril, has a french father and a mexican mother and let us in on some of her favorite foods and cultural mixtures she’s tried and loved. she started the tour at le mur des je t'aime, the wall of love. it’s an art piece featuring the phrase “i love you” written in every language. the wall is dark blue with white text and it was displayed on the side of a building neighboring a garden and an iron gate. we were on streets, but there weren’t any cars around. there was a carousel and people with scarves and a crepe stand and more pigeons and it felt so romantic that i started to tear up. with wet eyes, i got to walk up to the wall and take a photo and walk around the garden where the trees and bushes are just now starting to bloom. abril walked us over to a fountain nearby that provides free drinking water. it’s called a wallace fountain and there are hundreds of them all over paris. she took us to an award winning boulangerie called pain pain where we got to try a little pastry with sugar. there was a little boy crying and complaining to his mother right outside the doorstep. hearing him express his emotion in french was so endearing and heartbreaking. then we stopped by a fromagerie (la butte fromagère) and a butcher shop (boucherie gaudin) where she picked up the top five cheeses and the top five meats consumed by the people of france. we got chocolates and macaroons from chocolats illéné and crepes from crêperie kigg. abril brought us to a little building that the tour company owned where they take their guests to sit around a table and try the cheeses and meats with the bread and some wine. i loved the goat cheese and the ham the best. afterwards, allison and i stopped by the apartment in montmartre that van gogh lived in for two years and then we took the metro to saint germaine, an area of paris known for its appeal to writers. there’s this cafe, cafe flore, where hemingway used to go. we went there and i ordered a hot chocolate with whipped cream. in europe, their whipped cream has no sugary flavor to it. it’s bland. the point is that it’s cream, so it adds texture to the food you’re eating. sitting in this cafe, i watched the people wait for their friends, show each other the souvenirs they bought down the street, put forkfuls of food in their mouths, accidentally lean too much weight on the table sliding it out of place and having to put it back again. allison got tea and as we sat there, i just...i got it. i get the artists and the writers and why they move and why they sit so still. my eyes followed the fanned mosaic pattern of the floor and the cloths the waiters tossed over their forearms. if the food wasn’t so expensive, i probably would’ve tried to stay for a meal. we decided to go to the arc de triomphe afterwards. it was so much bigger than i thought it was going to be. we got there right as the sun was setting. the sky cast a purple film over the road and the trees and the people. there was a little creperie stand right next to the stairs down to the metro. i got one with biscoff’s cookie batter spread and sliced banana. and then, the most wonderful thing happened. off in the distance, above the buildings on the horizon line, the tower that i had previously thought was a cell tower started to sparkle. that was my first glimpse of the eiffel tower. it was small and distant, but it was flashing and i was enjoying my crepe and staring at the arch de triomph and it felt like the greatest moment of my life. i couldn’t believe i was actually standing on the huge, scary roundabout that i’ve seen from a bird’s eye view so many times in films and videos. i thought a lot about emma chamberlain on this trip, just because her travel videos brought me a big sense of relief and comfort when i was preparing to move across the atlantic. i could see her walk up and down the streets of bath or copenhagen and shop and get iced coffees and i find solace in knowing that people and their habits are a stable, underlying factor, no matter where a person goes. i was standing by the arc, watching the tower sparkle, eating a crepe, with my beaded safety pins and curly hair and chewed up lips and fears and ambitions and impulses and all the folded up ridges and creases in my heart for my little sisters and my second grade teacher. i brought myself into this place in the world where so many minds had been before and got to fill myself with it. we left when it was dark, the quietest smile on my face, and decided to check out the bar on the second floor of our hostel. we both got a glass of champagne and shared a bowl of roasted potatoes. we sat there for almost two hours talking about our heroes and our friends. we made a plan for the next day and then went to bed. march 5 we woke, packed our things, and hopped on the metro to go to a cafe called kozy bosquet. we had to stand in a line on the street for about half an hour because they were so busy. i got avocado toast, a caramel cortado, and a croissant because emily was shocked that i had been in france for five days and hadn’t had a croissant yet. on the food tour in montmartre, abril had mentioned that sacré-cœur, the basilica on the top of the hill, is the second most visited site in paris, after the eiffel tower of course. we walked up the hill past the cutest stained glass lamp shops and vintage stores and handmade jewelry storefront windows. the basilica is surrounded by chain fencing that has been covered in locks with lovers' initials drawn on them. from the top of the hill, there’s a beautiful lookout over the city. the sky always seems to be grey in europe. maybe that’s just because it’s march, but it does make the buildings and streets look uniform in a way. a cold and windy city, light blue, the view was beautiful. there were people sitting on the steps playing guitar and couples sharing sandwiches. the basilica itself, i thought, was underwhelming. maybe if i didn’t relate so strongly to chinese satellite and instead, had given up the piece of candy my youth group leader had given me on that one sunday when i was really little, i’d have learned a strange lesson and be more inclined to the idea of buying a rosary and tossing out my spare change to light a candle in a dark, drafty room. it was a really large room, impressive in its size and detailing in the mosaics on the ceiling, but the hushed whispering and echoing footsteps and smell of moldy stone wasn’t all that fulfilling to immerse myself in. i really did feel disappointed. i wish i hadn’t, because it’s so famous and supposed to be such a once in a lifetime place to be, but i just don’t connect with the spiritual, magical feeling everybody else seemed to be having there. i was grateful to leave and head to the louvre. contrary to the shock i felt at how massive the arc de triomph was, the glass pyramid entrance to the louvre was so much smaller than i had envisioned. immediately upon entering the pyramid, you ride an escalator down to a much larger, brown concrete and elegantly low lit room below the ground, bustling with tour groups and families with large unfoldable maps. all i wanted was to see the mona lisa and the winged victory. the rest of the museum could take an entire day to explore. i adore marble statues. it would’ve been so wonderful to walk through those displays, but we had other places to be. maybe i’ll go back someday. the museum had a definite air of pretentiousness, but that was to be expected. every hall was large and marble. we went through the french and italian painting halls. seeing the winged victory was my favorite. it’s at the top of a staircase in an area all to itself. the crowd taking photos wasn’t too difficult to navigate through, unlike the mona lisa’s crowd, which had a sectioned off back and forth line to get to. people were pushing their way to the front, only having like thirty seconds to take a few photos before you had to get out of the way and let someone else through. i didn’t really get a good look at the painting, but i took a photo for these two girls in front of us so they took one of us too. the photo turned out great! the experience itself wasn’t anything special. the only other paintings i distinctly remember being amazed by were the death of marat by jacques-louis david and the young martyr by paul delaroche. we had tickets to go up the eiffel tower at 6:30, so we didn’t hang around the louvre for too long. we got off the metro and went to an amarino to get gelato. i tried their black cherry and cream and their chocolate. it was so delicious! two guys came in and ordered hot chocolates. they looked phenomenal and i was almost tempted to order myself one too! but we left before i could give in to the impulse. one second, we were walking through a parisian street. the next, we were in a park, and the tower was there on my right. i couldn’t stop voicing how much it didn’t feel real. it looked like a picture. there were kids riding around on bikes and families in the park looking very much like they belonged there. there were people selling miniature sparkling towers and a gift shop stand and a creperie and people taking photos. we hadn’t paid to do a tour, we only bought climbing tickets. so we started the trek up the southern leg of the tower. we had to stop and take a break every couple flights, but we made it to the first floor within about six minutes. it was beautiful to look out at the park we had just been walking through and see all of the people moving around. they were so tiny, like little specks of cinnamon sprinkled over the whole landscape. we stood there long enough to catch our breath, and then we began the walk up to the second floor, the highest floor open to the public. the view from the second floor was even more breathtaking than the first. on our family vacations to michigan every summer, we can see the curve of the earth from the top of the sleeping bear dunes. it’s one of my favorite places in the world just because it’s grown up with me and, every year, it feels just as magical as it did the year before. from the second floor of the eiffel tower, the curve of the earth is even more visible and even more defined than it is at the dunes. we were standing on the northeast side of the tower, and i could see the seine to my left. the streets split the buildings into blocks, the view in front of me looking like a slice of cheese or pie or pizza placed so that the rounded edge followed the river and the tip connected with the park in front of the tower. we had reached this floor during the last ten minutes of daylight and i got to watched as all the street lamps lit up and the tiny people strolled underneath them. the city was glowing pink and then suddenly, it was dark and everything was lit up with street lights and the moon. we counted down for the clock to hit 7, and then witnessed the first blink of a light on the north leg of the tower. it flashed once, twice, three times, and then suddenly the whole tower was shimmering. from so close, i finally noticed all the light bulbs on the ironwork. i video called my family. emily answered and i blurrily saw josie stick her forehead into view and dad walked over and glanced down and mom peaked her head around his shoulder. the internet at home hasn’t been great, so the call glitched out almost immediately, but i think they got to see it sparkling! allison and i stood there and watched it sparkle for the entire five minutes. then we walked back down to the bottom and went to a crepe stand nearby where i got the same crepe i had had the night before. i think it was the crepes that made both the arc and the tower such wonderful moments for me. taking a bite out of one of those was better than trying all the cheeses and breads and chocolates. these crepes are what i’m gonna remember most. we enjoyed our crepes while we walked down to the seine to board a boat tour. we sat on the top of the boat, benches lining either side, no roof or walls, only a railing. there was a dark blue glow coming from the inside of the boat so we could see where we were walking but, otherwise, it was dark. as the boat would go under bridges, the lights from the street would light up the faces of the people sitting next to us. the whole affair felt like a scene a writer would put in a novel. the water was black and the street lamps were casting strands of gold across it. the wind was so intense, i felt the cold in my bones and sat there shivering. but honestly, if i didn’t feel the wind on my face, the experience wouldn’t have been the same. again, it was like watching a movie. the cold was the only thing reminding me that this was tactile and real. we went under some beautiful bridges and past all of the old and marvelous buildings on the riverside. there was a group of american high schoolers sitting on the other side of the boat. every time we went under a bridge, they would yell “bonjour!” at the people walking around overhead. sometimes the people would wave back. and everyone would cheer. we went past the notre dame undergoing construction and witnessed couples sitting down by the water (and a guy peeing on a tree). it was an hour long tour, so we were very cold by the time we docked again. there wasn’t a metro nearby. the closest option was a bus, so we walked ten minutes to the bus stop. it was like 10pm, and we just really wanted to get to our airbnb. to our dismay, we had to wait 26 minutes for the next bus (the sign lied, and it actually took the bus 35 minutes but it’s not like we were counting or anything). we sat in the cold in the dark. the tower was on our left, the corner of a building in front of us, and a cafe was on our right. at one point, a guy on a light blue scooter went past. while we were both pretty miserable sitting there for so long and getting impatient, the view was postcard worthy. it’s the type of image that would’ve been on the wall of me and emily’s shared middle school bedroom, the one that was carnival and paris themed. back at our airbnb, i scratched my arm on a ceramic backsplash title. i still have the scabs. the airbnb looked into a tiny courtyard in the middle of a building. the way in was through a hall with a door situated on the street between two cafes and right across from a subway. it’s the type of place i’d love to live permanently. or the type of place i’d want to spend a weekend in with my friends. i’ve recently come to the conclusion that dublin is the best european city to live in. it feels so homie and colorful and alive. but i see why paris is the most visited city in the world. it’s the best place to let go and relax in. it’s peaceful when you know where to sit and can listen to people playing the violin on the street. it’s my favorite place i’ve ever traveled to. march 6 our flight was leaving at noon, and the airport was an hour and a half north. we left the airbnb at 7:30 and took the metro to find the place where the airport bus shuttles pick up passengers. the bus was leaving that station at 9, but the ticket office didn’t open until 8:50 and the line of people wanting to get on this bus had enough people to fill six buses. we got there early enough that allison was able to stand in the line to board the bus and i got in the line to buy the tickets. thank god we did that, because we were able to get on the second bus instead of waiting for more to arrive. we probably would’ve missed our flight if we had had to stand there and wait around any longer. on the bus, i listened to boygenius and billie marten and the backseat lovers. that hour and a half was the longest ride of my life. i was so worried we were gonna miss our flight and have to find some other way to get home. but when the bus pulled into the airport at 10:30, all of that fear when away. this airport was basically a long shed. there were like…four gates. thank god for ryanair! we got our boarding passes, went through customs, went through security, and had an hour to get a ham and cheese croissant and a latte. all the tables in the little cafe area were full, so we went over by our gate, threw our bags down, and sat on the floor. it was so much fun. i really felt young. like a twenty year old traveling in europe. there was no dignity to be held onto. there were quite a few of us on the ground. it was a bonding moment with the girls next to us. none of us talked, except to mention how strange it was that our plane hadn’t even pulled into the gate as they started letting us through. i spent the plane ride editing my home screens. i have pages dedicated to my sisters and my friends and i scrolled through my phone laughing at the photos of cora on the floor in our kitchen with her fingers and toes spread out like claws. i played subway surfers and, of course, listened to luke hemmings. we landed around 1, got back to campus around 2, and i quickly got on a bus to go to my class at the other campus that started at 3. silly me never checked the syllabus though. my class had been canceled that day. i guess i made that bus trip just to get a coffee. i went to the spar on my way back to restock my groceries. my grocery list always, without fail, consists of bananas, jaffa cakes, and a bottle of wine. those three things are always in my room. i love being a young adult living on my own and being able to make those decisions for myself. i know what i need. i learned that, apparently, this week was fashion week in paris. the likes of lizzo, florence pugh, maude apatow, harris reed, zendaya, ethel cain, and abby roberts were all in paris at the same time i was. one of my biggest goals while i’m in europe is to see a celebrity. i really had a chance in paris, but it never happened for me. march 10 since france, i’ve gone back to going to classes and hanging out with myself. on wednesday, i got coffee with my friend rachelle before our women, feminism, and the creative and cultural industries lecture, and then joined her for a variety show on campus that night. yesterday, as i was writing all these updates, i was at insomnia for lunch, and these two young girls sat down next to me. one of them dipped her fingers into the top of her hot chocolate and shoveled out a mini marshmallow. they were dressed in their dark green corpus christi school sweats and their backpacks were discarded upside down on the floor. they reminded me of snow days with my sisters when i was younger. i haven’t thoroughly enjoyed playing in the show in years. i’m a little annoyed that i let go of that part of myself. i’ve been researching phd programs and thinking about the people in my life that mean the most to me. i’m getting really excited to see who i’ll become as a career woman. it’s so beautiful that i get to wake up every day for the rest of my life and listen to sabrina carpenter or gracie abrams or ashe or jade bird or suki waterhouse and spread raspberry jam on a rosemary cracker and put on shorts and dance on my bed. i always feel so much better about who i am when i go outside and walk around where people are. everyone has their own favorite songs and bracelets and socks and colors and i just think that everyone is so beautiful. it rained really hard yesterday and it’s supposed to rain all week long. it even snowed last night. i’ve been enjoying the mac and cheese aunt kim brought me for my birthday. ren started t yesterday! i’ve been obsessed with buying bottles of aloe water and i finally broke into the dark chocolate covered rice cakes i’ve had in my room for a while. the sun has started setting later and later. i’m feeling so drawn to the concept of summer. i want to slice up strawberries and make myself a coffee and sit by our pond and read in the heat. i’m looking forward to summer, but i’m dreading leaving this place. as of yesterday, my life in ireland is halfway over. it feels like i’ve been here for a really long time, but it’s still all so new and i’m not ready to be done. at the beginning of my semester, i wrote that i hope i don’t become unrecognizable to myself while i’m here. i haven’t. but i’ve also grown so much that january brandi and march brandi would probably disagree about a few things. i’m really hoping i can schedule a trip to copenhagen, amsterdam, and munich. i’m going to edinburgh in a month. i think i’m gonna love it there. until then, i need to get at least halfway through my big research projects and hang out with people a bit more. i keep experiencing random bouts of flushed skin and i think it's just a result of being so intensely busy and emotionally detached...or maybe i have a disease that i don't know about. i haven’t gotten sick yet. that’s something francis told us on our first day that we’d experience within the first couple weeks as our bodies adjusted to the new area. i’m taking this as a sign that i belong here. i just found out that kit conner is going to be filming in northern ireland starting next week…and i’m gonna be up there too. maybe this is my chance to see a celebrity live and in the flesh!
















































































































































































































































